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APR. MAY. 2017

XIV

formed, considered possible risk

factors in the onset of tumours:

heterocyclic amines and polycyclic

hydrocarbons. The cooking technique

can influence their formation. “In

the first case – explains Enrico Valle,

a family doctor and nutritionist in

the province of Monza – these are

compounds that are formed during

the cooking of meat, but are also

present in many processed foods, in

wine, in beer and in cigarette smoke.

Their formation is higher in abrupt

cooking processes and when they

exceed 200 °c. The use of marinades

containing garlic and onion, aromatic

herbs (thyme and rosemary) or weakly

acidic (vinegar or lemon juice) reduces

the formation. Among condiments,

extra virgin olive oil has a positive

effect, while butter seems to favour its

development. Polycyclic hydrocarbons,

however, are formed from proteins

and carbohydrates, when burning

of the food occurs. The cooking

systems that promote the development

are smoking, roasting and grilling,

especially on charcoal barbecues.

By distancing the food from the heat

source and avoiding the dripping of

the fats on the flame you can limit

the problem. Avoid excessive violent

heat fluctuations and often turning the

food allows results in a healthier dish.

“ These compounds are potentially

dangerous even for the preparation

staff. “There is a risk related to

occupational exposure – he concludes

– because in addition to remaining in

the food, the compounds evaporate

through the fumes and can be inhaled.

Aerate the premises where you cook

and avoid the development of smoking

helps to reduce the risk. In order not

to create alarm it should be noted that

these are risk factors: they increase the

possibility of the onset of a tumour,

but it is not absolutely certain that

they cause it».

______________________________

BOX

ONFALÓS, THE BARBECUE

LOOKS TO THE FUTURE

Among the barbecues available to

chefs, one of the most advanced is

Onfalós, produced by Smartech Italia.

“This is a technological barbecue -

explains Stefano Bizziccheri, owner

of Pratmar Milano, specialized in the

consultation and sale of appliances,

accessories and furniture for the

kitchen and authorized to organize

demonstrations on the use of Onfalós –

gas powered and equipped with a hard

chromium baking tray,

which allows grilling in

a perfect way. What makes

the difference is not so much

the tray but the technology that

controls the temperature, which

allows through probes and thermostats

to cook under smoking-point, around

200 °c. so the meat does not burn, it

doesn’t produce fumes and odours and

you can even cook indoors». When

cooking, the surface of the product

caramelizes, creating a crust that seals

the liquids. “So the flesh remains soft

and tasty – he says – and reduces the

weight decrease. The cooking times

are the same as the traditional grill, but

if they lengthen the product does not

burn, it only cooks more. In any case,

since the grill is harder than a knife

blade, you can cut the meat directly

above, to check the degree of cooking.

Onfalós is also great for burgers,

because it allows a very uniform,

thorough cooking.» Onfalós, all Italian

in both production and design, is

available in three sizes: small, medium

and large. “I recommend the medium

– concludes Bizziccheri – because it

allows you to divide the plate into

two cooking zones, to cook different

foods together with their optimal

temperatures, and can be moved easily

for catering services. It is powered

by a 5 litre cylinder, which gives an

autonomy of about 15 hours.”

______________________________

BOX

BARBECUE SAUCE COMPLETES

THE QUALITALY ASSORTMENT

The craving for meat in the restaurant

grows, as does the consumption

of sauces to accompany it. And the

supply adapts to the needs of the

market. Around 6 months ago, a

barbecue sauce was added to the

range of Qualitaly sauces (cocktail,

tuna, tartar, mayonnaise and ketchup).

“As always, when it comes to adding

a product to our brand-name range

– explains Giorgio Frigo, buyer of

Cooperativa Italiana Catering – it is

based on the trend of sales of the

various product categories with the

brands of our suppliers. When we

realized that the barbecue sauce was

taking hold and the consumption was

increasing, we agreed with Formec,

our chosen partners for the Qualitaly-

brand sauces, to widen the range».

Like the other Qualitaly sauces,

barbecue is also offered in

twister format of 1 kilo - suitable

also for being placed on the

table - and is notable for its

exceptional value for money.

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AT PAGE 50

A ‘petally’ dish

From crop production to a valid

industry, from use in the kitchen

to the Mise en place. Here’s

how edible flowers are gaining

the attention of scientific and

gastronomic research

By Maddalena Baldini

If flowers did not have their role as a

table decoration, it would seem to be

an incomplete dressing, something

hastily thrown together. But what

is the reaction of those who find

flowers directly on their plate? Well

edible flowers – they are called edible

flowers (the term derives from the

Latin verb ‘edere’, ‘to eat’) – represent

the trendy side of cooking, a fashion

designed to amaze not only the

eyes but also the palate. It’s of little

importance if the ancient Romans

and the Etruscans used petals and

flowers in their banquets and if,

now on the everyday home table,

they have now acquired a place

of respect (see pumpkin flowers,

cauliflowers and artichokes...). The

craze rages and menu have become

‘Petally’. Tendencies aside, behind

edible flowers lies a concealed world

of studies and research in both the

scientific and culinary fields; This is

because, as chef Bartolomeo Errico

says (chef Bartolo) “Every dish must

be reworked to make it unique and

never obvious. The chef will then

decide to follow the ideas that arrive

according to their tastes or continue

on their own way; for sure, however,

edible flowers are cutting a niche of

consensus, especially by consumers.”

Their beauty and the aesthetic

component that they give to the plate

goes hand-in-hand with their delicacy,

that is why they need particular

attention, not only in handling them

but also in their use in the recipe.

“Edible flowers, in addition to their

properties, give a more chromatic

touch to the dishes. It is necessary,

however, to pay great attention to use!

MAGAZINE