APR. MAY. 2017
XIV
formed, considered possible risk
factors in the onset of tumours:
heterocyclic amines and polycyclic
hydrocarbons. The cooking technique
can influence their formation. “In
the first case – explains Enrico Valle,
a family doctor and nutritionist in
the province of Monza – these are
compounds that are formed during
the cooking of meat, but are also
present in many processed foods, in
wine, in beer and in cigarette smoke.
Their formation is higher in abrupt
cooking processes and when they
exceed 200 °c. The use of marinades
containing garlic and onion, aromatic
herbs (thyme and rosemary) or weakly
acidic (vinegar or lemon juice) reduces
the formation. Among condiments,
extra virgin olive oil has a positive
effect, while butter seems to favour its
development. Polycyclic hydrocarbons,
however, are formed from proteins
and carbohydrates, when burning
of the food occurs. The cooking
systems that promote the development
are smoking, roasting and grilling,
especially on charcoal barbecues.
By distancing the food from the heat
source and avoiding the dripping of
the fats on the flame you can limit
the problem. Avoid excessive violent
heat fluctuations and often turning the
food allows results in a healthier dish.
“ These compounds are potentially
dangerous even for the preparation
staff. “There is a risk related to
occupational exposure – he concludes
– because in addition to remaining in
the food, the compounds evaporate
through the fumes and can be inhaled.
Aerate the premises where you cook
and avoid the development of smoking
helps to reduce the risk. In order not
to create alarm it should be noted that
these are risk factors: they increase the
possibility of the onset of a tumour,
but it is not absolutely certain that
they cause it».
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BOX
ONFALÓS, THE BARBECUE
LOOKS TO THE FUTURE
Among the barbecues available to
chefs, one of the most advanced is
Onfalós, produced by Smartech Italia.
“This is a technological barbecue -
explains Stefano Bizziccheri, owner
of Pratmar Milano, specialized in the
consultation and sale of appliances,
accessories and furniture for the
kitchen and authorized to organize
demonstrations on the use of Onfalós –
gas powered and equipped with a hard
chromium baking tray,
which allows grilling in
a perfect way. What makes
the difference is not so much
the tray but the technology that
controls the temperature, which
allows through probes and thermostats
to cook under smoking-point, around
200 °c. so the meat does not burn, it
doesn’t produce fumes and odours and
you can even cook indoors». When
cooking, the surface of the product
caramelizes, creating a crust that seals
the liquids. “So the flesh remains soft
and tasty – he says – and reduces the
weight decrease. The cooking times
are the same as the traditional grill, but
if they lengthen the product does not
burn, it only cooks more. In any case,
since the grill is harder than a knife
blade, you can cut the meat directly
above, to check the degree of cooking.
Onfalós is also great for burgers,
because it allows a very uniform,
thorough cooking.» Onfalós, all Italian
in both production and design, is
available in three sizes: small, medium
and large. “I recommend the medium
– concludes Bizziccheri – because it
allows you to divide the plate into
two cooking zones, to cook different
foods together with their optimal
temperatures, and can be moved easily
for catering services. It is powered
by a 5 litre cylinder, which gives an
autonomy of about 15 hours.”
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BOX
BARBECUE SAUCE COMPLETES
THE QUALITALY ASSORTMENT
The craving for meat in the restaurant
grows, as does the consumption
of sauces to accompany it. And the
supply adapts to the needs of the
market. Around 6 months ago, a
barbecue sauce was added to the
range of Qualitaly sauces (cocktail,
tuna, tartar, mayonnaise and ketchup).
“As always, when it comes to adding
a product to our brand-name range
– explains Giorgio Frigo, buyer of
Cooperativa Italiana Catering – it is
based on the trend of sales of the
various product categories with the
brands of our suppliers. When we
realized that the barbecue sauce was
taking hold and the consumption was
increasing, we agreed with Formec,
our chosen partners for the Qualitaly-
brand sauces, to widen the range».
Like the other Qualitaly sauces,
barbecue is also offered in
twister format of 1 kilo - suitable
also for being placed on the
table - and is notable for its
exceptional value for money.
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AT PAGE 50
A ‘petally’ dish
From crop production to a valid
industry, from use in the kitchen
to the Mise en place. Here’s
how edible flowers are gaining
the attention of scientific and
gastronomic research
By Maddalena Baldini
If flowers did not have their role as a
table decoration, it would seem to be
an incomplete dressing, something
hastily thrown together. But what
is the reaction of those who find
flowers directly on their plate? Well
edible flowers – they are called edible
flowers (the term derives from the
Latin verb ‘edere’, ‘to eat’) – represent
the trendy side of cooking, a fashion
designed to amaze not only the
eyes but also the palate. It’s of little
importance if the ancient Romans
and the Etruscans used petals and
flowers in their banquets and if,
now on the everyday home table,
they have now acquired a place
of respect (see pumpkin flowers,
cauliflowers and artichokes...). The
craze rages and menu have become
‘Petally’. Tendencies aside, behind
edible flowers lies a concealed world
of studies and research in both the
scientific and culinary fields; This is
because, as chef Bartolomeo Errico
says (chef Bartolo) “Every dish must
be reworked to make it unique and
never obvious. The chef will then
decide to follow the ideas that arrive
according to their tastes or continue
on their own way; for sure, however,
edible flowers are cutting a niche of
consensus, especially by consumers.”
Their beauty and the aesthetic
component that they give to the plate
goes hand-in-hand with their delicacy,
that is why they need particular
attention, not only in handling them
but also in their use in the recipe.
“Edible flowers, in addition to their
properties, give a more chromatic
touch to the dishes. It is necessary,
however, to pay great attention to use!
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