APR. MAY 2016
II
dedicated to offer full health. And
this trend is spreading, with some
differences, also in the province.
In short, organic, vegetarian and
vegan, but let’s also gluten-free, they
are now part of our professional
landscape. What I wonder is: it is a
fad or a phenomenon that will always
characterize most of our profession.
By operator, in contact daily with
the catering customers, my answer
is: no, it is not a momentary fashion.
But it is dictated by the sensitivity
and experience of many years on the
market.
Eurispes aid us. The well-known
research institute estimated that in
2016 Italians vegetarians and vegans
constitute the 8% of the population,
up sharply to 5.7% in 2014. The 7.1%
has totally eliminated meat and fish
from the diet and those who call
themselves vegans, that is, adopt an
exclusively vegetarian diet, they are
0.9%. But if we look at the reasons
for these choices, we find the reasons
why I consider that it is not a fad.
46% in fact, claims to make a choice
linked to the health and well-being.
30% do so for sensitivity towards
animals and 12% for sensitivity
towards the environment. Solid
reasons, then, that argue in favor of
informed choices and to last.
If so it is not passing phenomena, we
as the catering industry we must put
a lot of attention, for a few reasons.
Because we must be prepared to
cope with an increase in requests
from our customers, which in turn
will have to provide answers to
consumers. And why do we have to
look forward, in logic of economic
sustainability for our companies
and for those of our customers.
We cannot, in essence, stand still
while the market moves in a certain
direction.
As Cooperativa Italiana Catering we
made this ability to read in advance
the market one of our characteristics.
Again we are inserting references
allocated to this area of consumption
and we have to study a real project
for the area of well-being at the table.
Of our customers and our companies.
AT PAGE 6
News
Identità Golose’s
strength of
freedom
by Fabrizio Gomarasca
The strength of freedom was the
theme chosen for the latest edition
of Identità Golose (twelfth): freedom
as a lever to develop the creativity
of the chef, but also freedom as
a representation of the power of
innovation, said Paolo Marchi, creator
of Identità Golose content that is
changing from event created in the
wake of the Spanish gastronomic
congresses in time to cultural
development and the launch pad in
constant evolution of new ideas, new
concepts. In short, we talk about
the place where the evolution of
the themes of chef profession and
restaurant’s owners were born and
took shape.
The arena of Identità Golose is
the ideal counterpart - to claim
the freedom to do, to create, to
experiment - against the diktat of
all forms of extremism, from the
religious to the food. As Marchi
noted rightly, supported by Carlo
Cracco (which not coincidentally has
chosen to pay homage to the Enoteca
Pinchiorri with a double recipe for
pigeon, one traditional and revisited),
anyone can be a vegetarian day and
the day after enjoying a Florentine
steak.
Freedom, therefore, is not only seen
as an ego revenge on others, but
rather, if there is a thread that binds
the latest editions of Identità Golose,
is that of freedom as a responsibility
on the part of the chef against of
their clients and deliver a pragmatic
and emotional at the same time,
its employees, ensuring continuity
and sustainability activities, and
society as a whole, in terms of the
relationship with the territories, with
activities that will place and social
and environmental commitment (the
fight against waste, for example). In
short, the food (and the restaurant)
who painstakingly tries to distance
himself from the rites and the nice
touch that makes such a hold in the
popular national television audience,
so as to believe in the masses of
people, young and old, do the cook
is a shortcut to become a maître à
penser of our era.
The new Lopriore Italian table
The reflections of Paolo Lopriopre
(restaurant Tre Cristi), for example,
are trying to overcome the mantra, to
develop a new idea of table service.
The identities of the cooks, , must no
longer express themselves making
the dish, but it must return to the
kitchen regain possession. And at the
management table is the one who
eats. So why not letting people open
the wine? The “recipe” of Lopriore is
simple dish and separate accessories,
so that those who are at the table
can compose the dish according
to their tastes (and any allergies or
intolerances). To help in this process
Lopirore met the designer Andrea
Salvetti, who designed two special
equipment-sculptures: one for steam
cooking and the other a kind of plate
covered by a cloche, to finish cooking
in the room, without the presence
of the chef. The task of guiding the
guests is entrusted to a new figure of
maids, sort of alter ego of the chef
as disseminator of knowledge, but
also be able to replace it in purchases
on the market and talent scout
and specialty producers and local
products. A new idea that recasts
the role of the chef and the waiter
more in line with the knowledge
society: less spectacular the first, the
second most inside things, to make
the restaurant a place to experience
the table.
The Decalogue of Battisti kitchen
But the restaurant is also a business.
MAGAZINE




