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APR. MAY 2016

II

dedicated to offer full health. And

this trend is spreading, with some

differences, also in the province.

In short, organic, vegetarian and

vegan, but let’s also gluten-free, they

are now part of our professional

landscape. What I wonder is: it is a

fad or a phenomenon that will always

characterize most of our profession.

By operator, in contact daily with

the catering customers, my answer

is: no, it is not a momentary fashion.

But it is dictated by the sensitivity

and experience of many years on the

market.

Eurispes aid us. The well-known

research institute estimated that in

2016 Italians vegetarians and vegans

constitute the 8% of the population,

up sharply to 5.7% in 2014. The 7.1%

has totally eliminated meat and fish

from the diet and those who call

themselves vegans, that is, adopt an

exclusively vegetarian diet, they are

0.9%. But if we look at the reasons

for these choices, we find the reasons

why I consider that it is not a fad.

46% in fact, claims to make a choice

linked to the health and well-being.

30% do so for sensitivity towards

animals and 12% for sensitivity

towards the environment. Solid

reasons, then, that argue in favor of

informed choices and to last.

If so it is not passing phenomena, we

as the catering industry we must put

a lot of attention, for a few reasons.

Because we must be prepared to

cope with an increase in requests

from our customers, which in turn

will have to provide answers to

consumers. And why do we have to

look forward, in logic of economic

sustainability for our companies

and for those of our customers.

We cannot, in essence, stand still

while the market moves in a certain

direction.

As Cooperativa Italiana Catering we

made this ability to read in advance

the market one of our characteristics.

Again we are inserting references

allocated to this area of consumption

and we have to study a real project

for the area of well-being at the table.

Of our customers and our companies.

AT PAGE 6

News

Identità Golose’s

strength of

freedom

by Fabrizio Gomarasca

The strength of freedom was the

theme chosen for the latest edition

of Identità Golose (twelfth): freedom

as a lever to develop the creativity

of the chef, but also freedom as

a representation of the power of

innovation, said Paolo Marchi, creator

of Identità Golose content that is

changing from event created in the

wake of the Spanish gastronomic

congresses in time to cultural

development and the launch pad in

constant evolution of new ideas, new

concepts. In short, we talk about

the place where the evolution of

the themes of chef profession and

restaurant’s owners were born and

took shape.

The arena of Identità Golose is

the ideal counterpart - to claim

the freedom to do, to create, to

experiment - against the diktat of

all forms of extremism, from the

religious to the food. As Marchi

noted rightly, supported by Carlo

Cracco (which not coincidentally has

chosen to pay homage to the Enoteca

Pinchiorri with a double recipe for

pigeon, one traditional and revisited),

anyone can be a vegetarian day and

the day after enjoying a Florentine

steak.

Freedom, therefore, is not only seen

as an ego revenge on others, but

rather, if there is a thread that binds

the latest editions of Identità Golose,

is that of freedom as a responsibility

on the part of the chef against of

their clients and deliver a pragmatic

and emotional at the same time,

its employees, ensuring continuity

and sustainability activities, and

society as a whole, in terms of the

relationship with the territories, with

activities that will place and social

and environmental commitment (the

fight against waste, for example). In

short, the food (and the restaurant)

who painstakingly tries to distance

himself from the rites and the nice

touch that makes such a hold in the

popular national television audience,

so as to believe in the masses of

people, young and old, do the cook

is a shortcut to become a maître à

penser of our era.

The new Lopriore Italian table

The reflections of Paolo Lopriopre

(restaurant Tre Cristi), for example,

are trying to overcome the mantra, to

develop a new idea of table service.

The identities of the cooks, , must no

longer express themselves making

the dish, but it must return to the

kitchen regain possession. And at the

management table is the one who

eats. So why not letting people open

the wine? The “recipe” of Lopriore is

simple dish and separate accessories,

so that those who are at the table

can compose the dish according

to their tastes (and any allergies or

intolerances). To help in this process

Lopirore met the designer Andrea

Salvetti, who designed two special

equipment-sculptures: one for steam

cooking and the other a kind of plate

covered by a cloche, to finish cooking

in the room, without the presence

of the chef. The task of guiding the

guests is entrusted to a new figure of

maids, sort of alter ego of the chef

as disseminator of knowledge, but

also be able to replace it in purchases

on the market and talent scout

and specialty producers and local

products. A new idea that recasts

the role of the chef and the waiter

more in line with the knowledge

society: less spectacular the first, the

second most inside things, to make

the restaurant a place to experience

the table.

The Decalogue of Battisti kitchen

But the restaurant is also a business.

MAGAZINE