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APR. MAY 2016
III
And here Cesare Battisti (restaurant
Ratanà) draws a Decalogue of the
kitchen of a modern restaurant
where spaziop is also the idea of the
company’s profitability. Paolo Marchi
commented: “One can design a
perfect restaurant, ethical, ecological,
no-waste, pleasant, with a large
kitchen and wonderful service but
the cabin must stand, otherwise it is
useless. What is drawn on paper then
has to be realistic, and then you have
to pay employees and taxes. The only
theory is of little value.”
Here is the Decalogue of Battisti.
1- The kitchen is not a narcissistic
exercise but is fed through mistaken
identity: the dialogue is a basic
premise.
2- The kitchen is a humble and
democratic act: a plate never puts
in awe and is understandable to as
many people as possible.
3- The critically reinterprets the
traditional cuisine: never accept
dogmas, practical doubt and
constantly wonders about its
fundamentals and basic preparations,
changing over time.
4- The kitchen innovates lightening
the traditional recipes but at the
same time concentrates the flavors
that are always recognizable, in small
numbers and very distinct from each
other.
5- The kitchen enhances the work
of the virtuous producers, without
which there can not be a technical
development. Cook’s task is to study
in depth, recognize and isolate the
essence of a great product to return it
to the customer.
6- The kitchen is based on the
concepts of freshness and seasonality
of all food: it is essential to
know how to wait for the proper
maturation of a product and
work only at the moment of its
organoleptic peak.
7- The kitchen uses, and makes the
most of each edible component of a
product.
8- The kitchen can not be separated
from the concept of sustainability,
which concerns not only production
processes but also business ethics,
free from any form of exploitation or
marketing and promotional purposes.
9- The kitchen investigates
preservation methods, able to enrich
and extend the longevity of a food.
10- The kitchen pays great attention
to the study of service temperatures,
fundamental for the development of
a dish.
Niko Romito: the territory, the
tradition, the essentiality
And if Massimo Bottura proposes the
contemporary cook Manifesto, Niko
Romito (Reale restaurant) claims
that he did contaminate from its
territory. And the fantastic Rivisondoli
insulation is dedicated to the study
and research to give simplicity and
balance to the traditional cuisine. “I
try to create dishes able to dialogue
with the customer,” he said. And with
a look that goes beyond the offhand,
focused his speech on the importance
of the format, the standardization of a
repeatable model because the different
places that bear his mark may give the
same experience to diners.
(Brambilla-Serrani Photo)
The dish symbol of 12th edition
of Identità Golose is a creation of
Cristina Bowermann (Glass Hostaria,
Rome) is called To Bee or not to Bee:
a portion of tripe that recalls the hive
of bees
Carlo Cracco with Annie Féolde
Enoteca Pinchiorri (Photo Brambilla-
Serrani)
Paolo Lopriore (Photo Brambilla-
Serrani)
Cesare Batisti (Brambilla-Serrani
Photo)
Niko Romito (Photo Brambilla-
Serrani)
AT PAGE 8
News
Exploitation abroad
of Italian cuisine:
the protocol signed
between the
Ministries
Another step towards the
enhancement of high-quality Italian
cuisine abroad, towards the goal of
50 billion exports by 2020 that was
the commitment dl Government and
agribusiness enterprises in the six
months of Expo. So you can sum up
the signing of the Memorandum of
Understanding between the Ministries
involved (Agriculture, Foreign
Affairs, University and Research).
The initiative is part of the ‘Food
Act’ - the pact between institutions
and the world of fine Italian cuisine,
represented by the most important
chefs of our country - and aims to
give continuity to the experience of
Expo Milano 2015, coordinating a
plan action to enhance the Italian
culinary excellence.
“The world is hungry for Italy and we
respond with products and quality
food - said the Minister Maurizio
Martina - a guarantee of excellence
that covers the entire supply chain
and involving more and more young
people. Promoting the true Made in
Italy agro-food abroad, also through
the collaboration of renowned chefs,