QUALITALY

APR. MAY 2016

against hunger and poverty in the

world. However, I believe that many

colleagues being born a new way of

living the profession, with the search

for beauty that combines not only

between glitz and opulence, but that

stems from a search for respect. You

can make a great dish even with

humble ingredients if you respect

them, even with leftovers, perhaps

leveraging its aesthetic vein and

infusing much of him in the pot”.

What is the legacy of solidarity

initiatives such as those that she is

going through? Does he believes

that the creative process of a dish

is influenced by these experiences?

“Yes, no doubt. In that case, the

influence is more on the human side

than on the real culinary traditions.

In Rwanda, as in almost every

country in the throes of a severe and

prolonged poverty, the cuisine is

based on few local products, mainly

cereals, potatoes and legumes.

Hearty and “fill up belly”, a bit ‘like

polenta represented the power in

our poor countryside for centuries.

So it is difficult to have influences,

suggestions to be transferred to his

own creations. Conversely, under the

human profile, see these situations,

where every day there must be no

flight of fancy and the food available

is extremely respected and not

wasted, certainly changes a little ‘how

to see things, even to return to Italy.”

In recent years the chefs have

occupied the center of the media

scene, a bit ‘like rock stars in the

90s. What is your opinion on this

phenomenon?

“A chef cannot save the world. This

is the starting point of my review of

this phenomenon. But, of course,

the grip on public opinion can serve

to transmit a message that is not

just hedonistic but make people

think about the condition of a part

of the world. The chef of the third

millennium must know to combine

many schemes and synthesize them

in a single work. The most important

aspect is, without doubt, a strong

work ethic, addressed to the respect

and balance. The chef has to make

some choices according to their

own responsibilities, but it can also

convey a positive message to society,

especially to the younger ones.”

Finally, what it is the thing that, in

his experience, we in the West can

learn from the inhabitants of the

developing countries?

“In relationship to food of Rwandans,

I hit the naturalness. We live in a

society in which the naturalness is

a plus that must be paid; in some

countries it is poverty that inhibits

adulteration. In agriculture and in the

kitchen everything is natural, without

the use of chemical. However, even

this is changing rapidly and, they too,

are tempted by industrial agriculture

to maximize yields. Instead, they

should capitalize on their naturalness

as an element of diversity compared

to the West and protecting their

amazing biodiversity of monoculture

nightmare.”

The recipe by Aurora Mazzucchelli

Sweetbreads nutmeg and thistles

Ingredients for 4 people

500g of fresh veal sweetbreads

10gr of white vinegar

100g butter

Salt

Pepper

1 bunch parsley

Cardi at will (usually 1 thistle)

Nutmeg

Garlic

EVO oil

1 bay leaf

Preparation

Putting to drain the water, ice

and vinegar 500g of fresh veal

sweetbreads, this for about 4 days.

Drain, remove cuticles and

unnecessary.

Cool with water and ice; put them

in a bag in a vacuum with butter,

pepper and a bay leaf.

Cooking in thermostatic water to

80gradi for thirty minutes.

Soak the chopped nutmeg for one

night with water, and then move

using the extractor also nocturnal

infusion liquid.

After having trimmed and washed the

thistles make strips, sauté with garlic,

parsley, oil and salt. Cover with water

and cook for thirty minutes.

Heat the cardoons with their sauce

cooking

Review the sweetbreads in a pan with

butter and another finish browning

with drops of nutmeg extract.

Season with salt and pepper and

serve with the soup thistles.

AT PAGE 34

The humid breeze

that gently cooks

The steam oven allows obtaining

excellent results by operating at

temperatures and lower times with

respect to a traditional one.

by Elena Consonni

Healthy, light, food and

environmentally versatile, steaming

has ever more popular even in the

professional kitchen. For some time

now the technical equipment of a

professional kitchen also includes a

steam oven.

The differences between the

traditional cooking in the oven and

the steam are substantial, since

the operating temperature. “While

in a dry air oven cooking takes

place well above 100 °C - explains

Roberto Carcangiu, chef, educator

and president APCI, which closely

follows the theme of technological

innovation in the professional

kitchen and provides advice and

training on these issues - with the

steam cooking is faster and at lower

cooking temperatures. The steam is

more efficient than hot air. The steam

ovens allow to set the temperatures

(from 35-40 °C to 120 °C) and the

cooking time; also the temperature at

the heart, with the appropriate probe.

But not only changes the operating

temperature, the firing mechanism