QUALITALY

FEB. MAR. 2017

MAGAZINE

the most interesting. “It has a great

tradition and is also known by the

least interested” while his “is read

by the gourmet or foodie which seek

a narrated guide, the more curious

customers interested in learning”.

Tips for those who want to be

reviewed? “We also have complaints

from restaurateurs who consider

themselves to be neglected and which

I take into account every November

when I compile the list of restaurants

to visit for the next edition. However,

experience has taught me that it

is difficult for a good restaurant

to go unnoticed”. Characteristic of

the Guida dell’Espresso is the score

based only on the cuisine “while the

considerations regarding service and

location location can be found in the

text. This is to prevent a restaurant

with modest cuisine but a beautiful

location having the same score as

one with amazing food but a modest

location”.

“The debate on the validity or

otherwise of the paper guides in the

internet era has now gone on for

some time – says

Laura Mantovano

Editorial director of the Gambero

Rosso guides -. However, taking

everything into account what does

continue to make a difference is

the number of stars, hats and forks

exhibited in the review. Today you

can claim the distinction of being

the first restaurant in the world

for TripAdvisor or rather for its

customers, but a serious guide, the

fruit of the labour of a year by a team

of professionals who have the ability

to make comparisons and draw up

reviews as objective as possible,

constitutes a guarantee for both the

customer and restaurateur”.

A 360-DEGREE RATING

So what do the guide inspectors

judge? The ingredients, the chef’s

skill, creativity, the balance and the

quality to price ratio. But also the

atmosphere, the professionalism

of the staff, the service, the wealth

and mark-up of the wine list. In

short, the experience of the meal

in its entirety. Certainly, things

are more complex in detail. The

inspectors of the Michelin are a story

in themselves: they are considered

to be employees of gastronomic

criticism, compelled to comply

with a strict protocol in their

evaluation and this is often accused

of penalising the Italian approach

to the haute cuisine, which is more

imaginative and regional and without

standardised practices.

Sometimes what makes a difference

in the inspectors’ eyes are the details

which are not always taken into

consideration by the restaurateurs.

The menu should be consistent and

not too rich, limited to a few tens

of dishes. Encyclopaedic menus

are not viewed well. Fantasy in the

dishes is appreciated only if the

chef is able: there’s nothing worse

than a dish with three rows of

description that when served arrives

botched and indecisive. The tasting

menu must be a maximum of two

or three and should represent the

establishment’s best without giving

the idea of using leftovers. Highly

appreciated is the ad-hoc pairing of

glasses at a fixed and correct price.

Dishes for vegetarians and vegans or

suitable to various diets are worthy

of a bonus. Information on possible

allergens among the ingredients

is also considered important. The

“extras” in a menu are also very

important. A welcome from the

chef is always appreciated, as is the

pre-dessert and petit fours endings.

Small courtesies for guests which

do not go unnoticed. The bread

basket is fundamental, which must

be done in-house (or by a trusted

baker which should be indicated and

acknowledged) and composed of

various types. Packaged breadsticks

are banned, the most effective “star-

killer” known. Even the oil cruet

is to be avoided. The oil must be

bottled Italian DOP or IGP extra-

virgin olive oil and labelled to

guarantee the identity. Ideal also

would be a list displaying different

types of oils to match various dishes.

An assortment of at least three or

four types of vinegar and salt is

also effective. The wine list must

be sufficiently rich and assorted,

deep (i.e. with various vintages for

the major labels), with varieties

suited to the type of cuisine offered

by the restaurant, an adequate

representation of the local wine

without an excessive mark-up. A plus

is an adequate by-glass choice which

supplies the wants of both the single

client and the couple. The list must

also be constantly updated: to avoid

the situation where the labels offered

are unavailable when requested.

The service must be professional

and careful but not too insistent. The

maître d’ and waiters of a perfect

restaurant should satisfy every

desire of the customer even before

it is expressed. A patronising or too

familiar approach must be avoided, as

often happens in Italy. Every member

of staff, even if temporary, must know

the menu by heart in such a way as to

be able to respond to any questions.

Dirty dishes must be removed as

soon as possible, the table frequently

cleaned and the glass promptly filled.

Finally, the bill. It must be correct,

without undue or mysterious service

or cover charges. It is forbidden

to charge the aperitif which was

thoughtfully given at the beginning of

the meal with the implication it was

offered.