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certification of origin. But it has
relatively limited numbers. 90% of
the production takes place in Tuscany
(which covers the 35%), Umbria, Liguria,
Puglia and Sicily. And last year the
production has plummeted, especially
in Central Italy. “We launched the single-
variety oils that contained part of PGI”
Tognoni says.
Because this is a choice: better blending,
mixing oils from various sources, or
monocultivar or single origin?
“The single cultivar gives more
guarantees, but it is a niche in a
market that needs large amounts”
explains Riccardo Cassetta, manager of
BioLevante, company of Andria. “The
blending, if done right, gives a result
smoother and uniform, which lends
itself more easily to the consumer.
Under the economical aspect allows
lowers costs and a better balance.
The PDO instead is almost a single
cultivar, in Puglia for example the
90% comes from Croatina. But it is
important that the restaurateur knows
the distinctive characteristics of the
oil, and who understands such that the
bitter and “biting” is not a defect but
a virtue, are two attributes that oil is
important understand. Since years in
the company we keep short courses
of taste, even for restaurateurs, two /
three hours sufficient to distinguish the
characteristics of a high quality oil.”
The price certainly helps to orientate.
Over 7 euro per liter should give some
confidence (a lower price does not cover
the cost of production according to
Coldiretti), below is an unknown. But
also the price, it must be said, depends
on the area of origin and the year. “This
year we will have a good quality at the
right price - Carli says - we are tasting
some extraordinary things, coming from
Italy and from the Mediterranean area.”
Good news then, it’s time to taste and
maybe even discover, near or far from
home, new tones and new varieties.
The pantry Qualitaly
It is 100% Italian extra virgin olive oil
Qualitaly araterizzato from fruity olive
with floral and herbaceous notes. It is
available in different sizes: the one-liter
bottle, 0.75 liter, from half liter and 25 cl
bottle for the table
For ONAOO training is knowledge
ONAOO, National Organization of
Olive Oil Tasters, since 1983 organizes
courses of different levels at informative
and technical character, to teach and
stimulate the taste of olive oil with
the aim of recognizing the quality. In
other words “we teach the basics of the
vocabulary of olive oil - says President
Lucio Carli - that, once learned, never
forgotten, and allows you to make an
informed choice and to distinguish
between oil and the other. Every oil
has different elements of quality. There
are intense fruit, the average and light,
with a spectrum ranging from the sweet
Ligurian, the Puglian Croatina to the
Terre di Bari, bitter and pungent to
the greater presence of polyphenols.
Knowing the characteristics of various
oils can match them to the right dishes,
but also to evaluate the quality tasting.”
From stalls to stars, a 2015 of quality
for Italian’s oils
After a disastrous 2014 between bad
weather and attacks the bacterium
Xylella (present at the moment in
Salento but that threatens to spread) and
especially from the oil fly, which saw
decimated domestic production dropped
to 300 thousand tons, the 2015 harvest
is expected to be excellent, although
It will settle about 400 thousand tons,
still far from the national average of 500
thousand.
In Italy there are 250 million trees
on 1.2 million hectares, with a sector
turnover estimated at 2 billion Euros
and with a labor-intensive to 50 million.
AT PAGE 29
Ravioli stuffed with
extra virgin olive oil
foam with fondue
taleggio
Cook Author: Roberto Folcia - Limone
sul Garda (Bs)
Serves 4/6 people
For the egg pasta:
7 egg yolks