FEB.MAR 2014
XV
AT PAGE 38
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By Nicolò Regazzoni
A grape variety that is still often
synonymous with wines from the color
a little ‘taste and exhaust rough and
tannic, especially in youth. In fact, if
we are willing to put aside the clichés,
now more than ever Nebbiolo is able to
offer pleasant surprises, which may not
necessarily only great wines like Barolo
and Barbaresco.
These changes are behind a series of
important innovations viticulture and
winemaking, such as drastic reductions
in yields in the vineyard, winemaking
separate the individual crus, using
rotary fermenters (that reduce the time
of maceration in contact with the skins),
aging in barrels and use of refrigerated
containers in steel.
But not only that: Nebbiolo, while
continuing to be grown in well-defined
territories, is coming out of the narrow
confines of traditional Piedmontese
and started to deal with the demands
of the global market and with the
experiences of names still relatively
poorly understood.
Among these are the Gattinara DOCG
Piedmont (Vercelli), DOCG Ghemme
(Novara) and Bramaterra Doc (Doc and
Vercelli ), which in their blend cover
all variable percentage of the use of
varieties Nebbiolo. Not to mention the
interesting Doc Aosta Valley Donnas,
whose namesake wine is even called
“ the brother of Barolo mountain”,
obtained by making wine a minimum
of 85 % of the grapes Picotendro (local
name of Nebbiolo grape varieties).
This wide range of labels, however,
organoleptic characteristics are
extremely variable and price positioning
very different and it is therefore very
difficult to use the variety denomination
to suggest a lowest common
denominator in the eyes of consumers.
The Nebbiolo -based wines, therefore,
fail to meet many expectations on the
part of consumers, but they will never
enter the market with a unified image
and consistent.
One feature, the latter, which certainly
represents an obstacle export
designations less important, but at the
same time it hides many opportunities
yet to be exploited.
Bava
Gionson
Piemonte Doc
Product Nebbiolo grapes, releases
aromas of spices, rose petals, tea, red
fruits and a slight smoky. On the palate,
however, particularly sweet tannins
are felt. It’s a powerful wine and at the
same time drinkable and pleasant, with
six days left to ferment with the skins
and then aged in stainless steel.
Pairings
Pasta dishes, especially pasta with
truffles.
Cantaloupo
Anno Primo
Ghemme DOCG
Produced from Nebbiolo grapes sun
and left to age twenty months in oak
barrels before bottling. It has a very
intense aroma and persistent, ranging
from purple to pink and a hint of dried
raspberry, while the taste is dry, tannic
and hot body. Serve in large glasses,
taking care of oxygenation.
Pairings
Grilled and roasted, braised or stewed
red meats, game and hard cheeses very
mature
Cantina Gallura
Karana
Colli del Limbara IGT
Grape varieties Nebbiolo (90%),
Sangiovese and Caricagiola. The nose
is large and persistent with scents,
vinous bouquet, fragrant and hints of
ripe fruit. The taste is dry, full, soft,
structured, well-balanced acids and
tannins. Uncork at least 30 minutes
before serving.
Pairings
Tasty pasta dishes, grilled, roasted,
pecorino cheese
Ceretto
Bernardina
Nebbiolo d’Alba DOC
Delicate bouquet reminiscent of
violets, and that is accentuated and
perfected with aging. Dry, velvety and
harmonious that is accompanied by a
good body. It is obtained by resorting
to the classic hat revealed fermentation
in steel tanks. It’s also available in large
bottle format (up to 5 liters).
Pairings
Pasta with meat sauce, risotto with wild
game, roasted and grilled, seasoned
cheeses
Fay
Ca Morei
Valtellina Superiore DOCG Valgella
The grapes are 100% Nebbiolo, were
harvested in the second half of October.
After pressing the must was fermented
in stainless steel tanks for two weeks,
with maceration of seven days.
Following malolactic fermentation and
maturation for 12 months in baroque.
Delicate scent, it has a dry, harmonious
and round.
Pairings
Pizzocheri, red meat, dried beef and
goat violin, aged cheeses
La Palazzina
Bramaterra Riserva Doc
Blend of Nebbiolo (70%), Croatina
Vespolina and Uva Rara. Aromas of red
fruit, cherry and violet, with a taste of
good structure, balanced, accompanied
by sour and ethereal sensations. Each
variety separately follows the different
stages of vilification with maceration
in stainless steel tanks and aged for 48
months in oak barrels, baroques and
tonal.
Pairings
Risotto, meat, game, meats and cheeses
Produttori del Barbaresco
Barbaresco DOCG
Wine from Nebbiolo grapes fermented
in steel and then aged for 24 months
in large oak barrels. On the nose you
will hear hints of red fruit and spices,
which over the years tend to open up.
Powerful tannins on the palate, with a
lingering finish. Not to be drunk before
4/8 years after harvest.
Pairings
Egg pasta, risotto, meat and game
