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MAGAZINE Februar y/March 2025 and that the wheat dough symbolised the ferti- lity of the earth. And now we come to Calabria where an equally significant Easter cake is the cuzzùpa, which is prepared in different varia- tions throughout the region. This cake, which is shaped like a doughnut, is made with flour, sugar, eggs and sometimes with a mixture en- riched with yeast and liqueur. Depending on the area, it can be decorated with boiled eggs or, as in the tradition of Salento, with candied fruit and sugar. ‘I remember that as a child, on Easter day, the surbini, on their way back from mass, would give the children and their girlfriends cuzzùpa as a gift,’ says Fer- nando Russo. “Depending on who received it, the shape of the cake would change: it could be in the shape of a rooster, a doll or a basket”. TYPICAL BISCUITS AND OTHER SOUTHERN DELICACIES TRADITIONAL BISCUITS AND OTHER DELICACIES FROM THE SOUTH In southern Italy, biscuits are an essential part of the Easter tradition. In Calabria, for example, people make pitte con niepita, biscuits filled with cocoa, jam, walnuts, liqueur and cinnamon, whi- le in Salento quaresimali are the most popular. These biscuits, made with ground almonds, flour, sugar, eggs and cinnamon, are cooked twice to obtain a crunchy consistency that makes them perfect to enjoy with an amaro or a limoncello. ‘The two-stage cooking process is what makes quaresimali so special,’ explains Fernando Rus- so. ‘They are biscuits that keep very well and are ideal for eating at the end of a meal.’ CENTRAL ITALY: DESSERTS THAT TELL STORIES Let's move on to central Italy, where just as many delicacies grace the Easter table. In Um- bria, for example, the ciaramicola is a dessert that represents an icon of Easter in Perugia. This doughnut-shaped cake is covered with a white icing and coloured sprinkles, reminiscent of the colours of the different districts of Peru- gia. Ciaramicola, which is traditionally given by girlfriends to their sweethearts on Easter Day, is a cake that embodies all the passion and liveliness of the city. Ciaramicola dates back to ancient times and it is said that its origin is linked to a legend about a gift made by lo- vers to their sweethearts. The doughnut shape symbolises eternal union and the white icing, which can be enriched with coloured sprinkles, represents the purity of the bond. In Romagna, on the other hand, the brazadela is a compact doughnut that is often dipped in wine or tea. Its dense consistency and light flavour make it perfect as a dessert for breakfast or as a snack. Another typical local dessert is torta tagliolina, which is made with a leave- ned shortcrust pastry and a filling made with almonds and sugar. Fernando Russo , a pastry chef from Salento and owner of the Champs Elisee laboratory in Surbo, shares his version of lamb with almond paste with us. ‘Every year, we prepare quince jam using a special recipe that involves adding chocolate chips and candied fruit. For the deco- ration, we use a mixture that gives the impres- sion of ‘wool’ and makes our lamb even more special’. The result is a dessert that combines the delicacy of almonds with the sweetness of fruit, creating a perfect balance of flavours. Another Easter cake with deep roots in Apulia is the cassata, which is most popular in Sicily but is also prepared in other regions of southern Italy. The Apulian cassata is made with sweete- ned ricotta, sponge cake, marzipan and candied fruit. This dessert, which is thought to have Ara- bic origins, is a symbol of Italian confectionery and, although it is an Easter dessert, it is eaten throughout the year. THE NEAPOLITAN PASTIERA AND CALABRIAN CUZZÙPA Another Easter favourite is the Neapolitan pa- stiera, which, together with the colomba, is one of the best known and most popular desserts in Italy. This traditional Campania dessert has a shortcrust pastry base, filled with a mixture of wheat boiled in milk, ricotta, sugar and eggs. Pastiera is flavoured with cinnamon, orange zest, vanilla, orange blossom water and rose water. These flavours, together with the creamy texture of the filling, make the pastiera a rich and complex dessert that perfectly represents the link between the land and the culture of Naples. The pastiera is not just a dessert, but a true tradition with deep historical roots. It is said that its origins date back to ancient times, when the pastiera was prepared as an offering to the gods in gratitude. It is also said that its shape represented the return to life after winter ----------------------------------------------------------- AT PAGE 46 ON THE ROAD Easter: a journey through Italian regional traditions FROM THE NEAPOLITAN PASTIERA TO THE COLOMBA, EASTER IN ITALY IS A RIOT OF FLAVOURS AND SYMBOLS. EACH REGION GUARDS UNIQUE RECIPES, HANDED DOWN THROUGH GENERATIONS, THAT TELL STORIES OF CULTURE AND TRADITION by Alessandro Vergallo Every year, during the Easter holidays, we em- bark on a journey that leads us to rediscover our country's culinary traditions. Easter desserts are linked to traditions that have been handed down for centuries, and each one tells a story of symbolism and culture, enriching the Italian culinary landscape. On this occasion, we will fo- cus on desserts that celebrate Easter throughout the different Italian regions. These include the chocolate egg, the colomba and the lamb made of almond paste, desserts that have become universal symbols of the holiday. But in addition to the best known, each region jealously guards unique recipes that reveal a deep connection with the land, history and local traditions. SOUTHERN ITALY AND THE ALMOND: A HISTORY OF TRADITION We begin our journey in southern Italy, a land rich in history and flavours that have their roots in the distant past. Apulia, in particular, is a region that has seen the passage of many dif- ferent peoples over the centuries: Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Normans, Spanish and French, each of whom has left an indelible mark on the region's culinary heritage. Among the products that best represent the tradition of the south is the almond, an ingredient that grows abundant- ly in areas surrounding the Mediterranean and that, over the centuries, has been widely used in confectionery. The almond is, without doubt, the main ingre- dient in Apulian cakes and pastries, which are enriched with desserts that use almonds as the main ingredient during the Easter holidays. One of the most famous is the agnello di pasta di mandorla (lamb made of almond paste), which is prepared with almond paste, sugar, vanilla and lemon juice, and symbolises rebirth and life. This dessert, which can be filled with quince or black cherry jam, is one of the most representative of Easter in southern Italy. Tradition has it that the lamb is decorated with a special mixture that resembles wool, made with sugar and a little Strega, a typical liqueur from the area. XIV