QUALITALY 142

October/November 2024 XVI MAGAZINE RECIPE The Kaiserschmarrn Literally the Emperor’s omelette is an Austrian dessert found in almost every typical restaurant in the country . It originated from the poor tradition of farmers and shepherds who had few ingredients available such as eggs, flour, milk and lard , which was used to grease the iron pan. As early as the 1500s, there was talk of Schmarren , a sweet pancake prepared in a frying pan, then, in the mid-19th century, called Kaiserschmarren , a more bourgeois version , a mix between a crepe and a pancake, enriched with sultanas. Ingredients: • 6 eggs; 400ml milk; • 200g finely ground flour; • 3 tablespoons crystal sugar; • 2 tablespoons raisins; • 8g/2 teaspoons vanilla sugar; • rum; • grated lemon peel; • 50g butter for frying; • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter and crystalised sugar, for caramelisation; • salt to taste; sugar and cinnamon for sprinkling. Preparation Soak the sultanas in rum for 15 minutes. Preheat the oven to 180°. First melt the butter, then mix egg yolks, milk, flour, grated lemon peel and vanilla sugar in a bowl until smooth. When the first bubbles appear in the mixture, the dough is ready to be poured onto the plate and sprinkled with rum-soaked sultanas. It is now time to bake, letting the bottom of the cake cook until brown. Then turn it over and let it bake for another 6-8 minutes until golden brown. Cut the schmarren into smaller pieces, and sprinkle with unsalted butter and crystal sugar and caramelise. Before serving on preheated plates, sprinkle with cinnamon and icing sugar. __________________________________ AT PAGE 54 BOOKS #1 A tutto tonno (Tuna everything) BY CARMELO CHIARAMONTE www.bibliothecaculinaria.it € 5,00 In its preserved form, it is a wild card, ever-present in the pantry and ready for a range of more or less tried-and-tested transformations. Who better than a Sicilian chef to reveal the true possibilities of tuna and its close relatives (mackerel, lanzardo, palamida, tambarello, etc.). A Tutto Tonno encapsulates the passion, research and extraordinary sensitivity of Carmelo Chiaramonte. Its 28 entries are accompanied by historical and scientific notes. He explores the fundamental role of tuna in Sicilian cuisine and food culture and traces the links with that of Japan. He demonstrates that tuna is the true ‘pig of the sea’ and its forequarter can also provide tasty dishes. With rare dexterity he fuses ancient knowledge with modern technique. His pages smell of the sea and his recipes of a profound knowledge of this extraordinary delicacy. BOOKS #2 Golosità ragionata (Reasonable gluttony) BY BAU FRÉDÉRIC, HANH THIERRY, HAUMONT RAPHAËL, BORTOLI BÉNÉDICTE www.bibliothecaculinaria.it € 52,00 While the professional kitchen has been on the road to innovation for some time, embracing a range of new ingredients and techniques, pastry has been more reluctant to change. The realm of confectionery is governed by precise dosages and temperatures, delicate ratios of fats and carbohydrates that lend themselves to little in the way of replacements or imbalances. For a creative like Frédéric Bau, the apparent rigidity of this system was a challenge. Further spurred on by the perception that the public is increasingly aware of the nutritional aspects of what they eat, he decided to rethink the fundamentals of his confectionery. The result is not a book dedicated to sacrifice, but one that finds a new balance, without exaggeration. The chef’s aim is to reduce the amount of sugar and fat in his recipes without sacrificing the sensory qualities that make them special. To do this, he has enlisted the help of a nutritionist, Thierry Hanh, and a chemist, Raphaêl Haumont. With scientific precision, they explored the taste experience by identifying the functional aspects of pleasure (appearance, flavour, texture) and the role of individual ingredients in providing this sensation. BOOKS #3 Il Menu Management BY FRANCO LUISE www.bibliothecaculinaria.it € 19,90 The creation of a menu is based on research that reflects the catering establishment’s own marketing needs, conveniently representing the restaurant’s culinary philosophy and, above all, constituting a fundamental document for the restaurateur for his future choices and to consolidate profits from the sales of his dishes. This volume is intended to represent the entirety of this process, a useful process both for those who are about to open a new restaurant and desire to be helped throughout the creative arc of the menu, and for those who may decide to revamp the existing one, change its graphic layout, use it for commercial evaluation ( which is highly recommended) or for the need to change the restaurant’s concept. The Kitchen Evolution series offers the operational means to help the restaurateur develop the necessary efficiencies in line with current production process technologies, but also all possible directions for development in the promotion and evolution of his increasingly complicated but equally fascinating business.