QUALITALY 142

October/November 2024 XIII MAGAZINE Staying in the Alps and crossing the border, we find ourselves immersed in the magical Christmas atmosphere of aristocratic Austria. Here, amidst snow- covered landscapes and enchanting towns, Christmas takes on a special charm: the famous Christmas markets dot the squares of large towns and small villages, spreading scents and flavours that warm even the coldest days. Walking among the illuminated stalls, one breathes a unique festive air, and this corner of Europe, with its peaks and enchanted atmosphere, seems the ideal place to experience all the magic of the festivities. In the capital, Vienna, alone, there are more than 15 markets scattered throughout the city. Also well-known is the Innsbruck market, which for 50 years has enchanted young and old alike with its attractions, especially at the famous Marktplatz where there are more than 60 stalls full of gastronomic specialities and Christmas products. HABITS AND CUSTOMS Surrounded by the majestic Alps, we discover in Austria a world that combines ancient culinary traditions, excellent local products and a deep respect for the land. Each valley has its own character and typical products: fruit, vegetables, cereals, meat and cheese, many of them organic, make Austria one of the leading organic producers in Europe. The choice of sustainable cultivation and breeding techniques is not just a trend, but a true philosophy that respects nature and provides products of the highest quality. These places, with their lush meadows, fresh air and quietness, are an ideal habitat for cows, which, through the production of milk and cheese, play a key role in the country’s economy. Each region has its own specialities, including the famous Sura Kees , a sour cheese typical of the Montafon and Vorarlberg mountains, or the Pinzgau brewer’s cheese and the Alpine Tennengau , known in the Salzburg region. Some valleys even have food and wine routes dedicated to cheese, such as the Gailtal Valley in Carinthia, where it is possible to go from one Alpine dairy to the next and taste local specialities handed down through generations. Not to be outdone is the organic cheese dairy attached to the Schlierbach Abbey in Upper Austria, a place that combines the beauty of Baroque architecture with the production of refined cheeses, in a combination of history and taste that attracts enthusiasts and the curious. But Austria’s surprises do not end there. Among its rarest specialities is the mangalica pig from Seewinkel in Burgenland, an ancient breed of pig with a woolly coat that produces tender, rich and succulent meat, ideal for the production of top-quality bacon and lard. The peculiarity of the Mangalica pig also lies in its habits: breeders exploit its natural inclination to dig into the ground, using it to regenerate forest soil, in an interesting example of collaboration between man and animal for the care of the environment. Continuing our culinary journey in the Neusiedler See-Seewinkel National Park, we encounter grey steppe cattle , another unique breed that not only enriches the cuisine with its meat, but also plays a crucial role in the local ecosystem. These animals graze plants and prevent the growth of reeds, keeping the area’s natural habitat in balance. A number of specialities are obtained from the steppe cattle, including the popular national park sausages . BETWEEN FLAVOURS AND TRADITIONS Like the Italians, Germans and Swiss, Austrians are also deeply attached to religious traditions that have been handed down for generations. One of the most heartfelt customs is fasting on Christmas Eve, a day on which, according to tradition, the consumption of meat should be avoided. For this reason, on 24 December throughout Austria, the main dish is usually fried carp. Although it is not washed by the sea, Austria has a rich fishing tradition, thanks to its clear and pure lakes. One of the most renowned locations is the Bluntautal nature reserve in the Salzburg region, home to unique fish species such as char , lake trout and even Alpine crayfish . Here, the crystal-clear waters and unspoilt nature create a perfect environment for quality fish production, reflecting a balance between man and nature that is the basis of the Austrian culinary philosophy. Added to this excellence is Styrian pumpkin seed oil , the ‘black gold’ of Austria, renowned for its intense nutty flavour and beneficial properties, ranging from detoxifying effects to the prevention of cardiovascular diseases. Produced exclusively by traditional methods in a few remaining mills, such as Fandler, Auer and Steirerkraft, this oil is more than just a condiment: it is used in soups, salads, meat dishes, and even in desserts such as vanilla ice cream or soufflés. Another hidden gem is Carinthian black garlic , known as ‘the black gold of St. Paul.’ This garlic undergoes a long natural fermentation process that gives it a sweet and complex taste, with notes of vanilla, caramel, balsamic and tamarind. It is prized by chefs and gourmets for its distinctiveness and because, unlike fresh garlic, it leaves no unpleasant odours. It is an excellent ingredient for meat and game but is also used to enrich gourmet desserts. Vienna is a magical place to spend the Christmas holidays. The streets are festively lit up and every corner of the city tells the story of the Nativity with events, markets, concerts and with lunches and dinners in traditional restaurants. DULCIS IN FUNDO In this land that was once the heart of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, confectionery also plays a major role. Simple and sophisticated, traditional Hapsburg desserts have conquered the world’s most refined palates. The Kaiserschmarrn , a kind of caramelised and scrambled pancake,