QUALITALY_136

September/October 2023 XIII MAGAZINE of traditions and working techniques. Culinary benefits in economic terms, in terms of processing and quality of finished products, but also in terms of image, communication and storytelling. TO WHAT EXTENT? Insofar as the consumer is educated and his concept of quality marries that of ethical, nutritional, organoleptic and food origin-related quality. with a Brazilian Parmesan by mistaking it for the perfect equivalent of Parmigiano Reggiano, little gastronomy can do there’s little that can be done. De gustibus we might say, each to their own. We can certainly blame this consumer but we have an education and training problem that needs to be solved as soon as possible. WOULD A PROFESSIONAL BUYER BE ABLE TO COMPENSATE FOR THIS LACK OF CONSUMER EDUCATION? There are two areas in which nutrition education is classically carried out. In the clinical field, we have nutritionists’ consultations aimed at individuals or small groups. Then there are public health measures at a community level (schools, families, work) or the entire population. However, there are many stakeholders who can help. Among them certainly buyers in the food sector, whether category managers or not, can ensure that exclusively quality products reach the counters and shelves of large-scale distribution. But when and how much can we trust a buyer? In my opinion, a lot when a buyer is not simply a buyer who succumbs to the temptations of price - this is after all an original sin in purchasing - and does not concede more than necessary to the flattery of the supplier. Let’s not forget that a good buyer should know how to be a technologist, agronomist, breeder, hygiene expert, sensory analyst, nutritionist, skilled scout, fine connoisseur of the territory and, perhaps, a thousand and one things. Because class is not water and a buyer, even more so, needs to be educated. AND A CHEF? The chef can certainly be an educator. Indeed, he can teach how to reduce waste, to shop wisely, to be environmentally responsible. He can be a regional ambassador, a supporter of virtuous producers and thus indicate a flavour pathway that then leads to noble ingredients, suggesting how to treat and enhance them. But he can do much more. Take Niko Romito and allow me to succumb to the fascination of this educated, thoughtful man, only apparently melancholic but held by the force of the drop that shatters the rock. Romito’s cuisine educates the palate by bringing new, unexplored flavours to the surface and teaches a clearer perception of the ingredients, highlighting the most hidden potential. And for Romito, a chef must not only know how to eat well but must also make people eat well because cooking cannot disregard the health of both man and planet. And a chef can achieve this goal precisely, or perhaps only by starting from haute cuisine that can afford to invest in research and then disseminate and democratise the results by devising processes and protocols that can be applied to the large numbers involved in mass catering, leading to products that have added values capable of qualifying the entire supply chain that, in the public sector, suffers inexorably from the lack of industry training and the cost of the raw materials used. AT PAGE 42 DID YOU KNOW? Efficient kitchens to reduce consumption ORDER PLANNING, STORAGE OF UNEATEN FOOD, USE OF APPROPRIATE EQUIPMENT MAKE THE KITCHEN MORE SUSTAINABLE by Elena Consonni Sustainability is a noun that encompasses many aspects, including in the business of a restaurateur. It also means the responsible handling of food ingredients and all the water, nutrients and energy used to grow and produce them. Yet, catering is responsible for huge amounts of food waste, often due to miscalculations on how much to prepare. Laura Michelini and Ludovica Principato , researchers at Lumsa and Roma Tre, studied the phenomenon and found that the majority (45%), occurs in the kitchen during preparation, a significant proportion (34%) on the plates of customers who order more than they manage to consume. The remaining 21% is due to food spoilage, poorly stored or taken beyond the expiry date. The strategies to be adopted to reduce these losses are diverse and concern many stages of food production. First of all, there is the proper planning of purchases, especially for perishable products. Orders must be placed by assessing the shelf life of fresh produce, the number of expected place settings and the average frequency with which the various dishes on the menu are ordered. Fundamental then is the storage of the products, under the conditions indicated by the manufacturer (+4°C for perishable products, -18°C for frozen products; a cool and ventilated environment for dry products). If a packaged ingredient is only partially consumed, what is left over must be stored carefully sealed, retaining all the information on the packaging. If, on the other hand, what is left over is product that has been cooked on the premises, it should be stored in the refrigerator, in suitable tightly sealed containers on which must be marked the date of preparation. Modern technologies, such as blast chilling or vacuum packing, can help reduce waste by prolonging the shelf life of cooked food. It is also useful to work with the customer, for example by giving the possibility of ordering a half portion or encouraging the practice of taking away what may be left on the plate. There are still too many patrons in Italy who are ashamed to ask to take away what they have not consumed. The waiting staff can therefore be trained to suggest guests take this action. The