QUALITALY_134

May/June 2023 VI MAGAZINE of intangible cultural heritage of humanity. A candidacy proposed by the Ministers of Agriculture and Food Sovereignty, Francesco Lollobrigida , and Culture, Gennaro Sangiuliano, and unanimously accepted by the National Commission of the United Nations Organisation, which points straight at one objective: to support and evaluate on the international chessboard that set of social practices, rituals and gestures based on local knowledge that make up Italian food. The dossier supporting the request - written by Professor Pier Luigi Petrillo , a professor at Luiss University, who has in the past been the curator of other Unesco candidacies, such as that of the Mediterranean Diet and Neapolitan pizza makers - underlines how our culinary heritage is made up of a mosaic of traditions that reflect the country’s biocultural diversity. A varied and articulated heritage, which is, however, also linked by a common denominator: conceiving the moment of preparing and eating a meal as an opportunity for sharing and discussion. And in this perspective, the candidacy intends to enhance the relationship that in Italy binds culture on the one hand and food on the other, considered in its own right an identifying phenomenon of the country’s lifestyle. However, it will take time to complete the objective, i.e., to receive the green light for the application: the dossier must be forwarded by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs to Unesco, which will start the evaluation process that will be concluded by December 2025. But this time, according to Undersecretary Mazzi’s words, will prove invaluable in building the foundations to fully exploit the potential that this recognition will bring. ON TOP OF CONSENSUS This candidacy, in fact, can only strengthen the image of Italian cuisine, which is already at the top of global preferences, as confirmed by a very recent survey conducted by CNN Travel, awarding the gold medal to Italy. A victory achieved with ragu, pizza, salami and coffee. These are in fact the strong dishes on our menu, according to the survey by the American broadcaster, which also underlines how the cuisine of the Bel Paese can count on another strong weapon in its arsenal: it is not in fact an ‘affair’ reserved for chefs alone. “Here lies the real genius,” confirms CNN, “Italian food has become everyone’s food. In essence, even foreigners can easily try their hand at preparing our dishes. It’s true, however, that enjoying a risotto, fried fish or a plate of lasagne right here in Italy is quite another matter. And it is precisely on this point that the Unesco candidacy must and will be able to leverage, first, and the recognition, which we are certain will come, later. The prestigious ‘licence’ of intangible heritage of humanity may in fact prove to be one more reason to convince foreign tourists to choose our country for their holidays. ‘When it comes to choosing a destination for a trip,’ says CNN itself, ‘what we eat and drink may prove to be an important part of the planning’. Here, therefore, lies the real bet: knowing how to exploit this opportunity, to further strengthen our tourism. To the benefit of the restaurant industry and, therefore, the world of wholesalers linked to it, which could capitalise on the growth in arrivals by posting a corresponding increase in turnover. __________________________________ BOX Competitors ‘beaten’ by the Bel Paese Which countries are undermining Italy as the world’s favourite cuisine? The first formidable competitor is China, which the CNN survey places second in terms of preferences. Playing in favour of the Celestial Empire’s cuisine are above all sweet and sour pork, roast suckling pig, Peking duck and the traditional dim sum and Xiaolongbao. On the third step of the podium is France, which has three arrows to its bow: escargot. macaroons and baguettes. Next comes Spain, which is particularly appreciated for its jamon iberico and churros, and Japan, loved for its miso soup, tempura and the now classic combination of sushi and sashimi. Also in the top ten are India, which capitalises on its historic knowledge of the use of spices, Greece, which relies on the trio of olive oil, spanakopita and gyros, and Thailand, which emphasises an effective combination of herbs and spices. Finally, Mexico, which focuses on variety with menus based on enchiladas, tacos, helados and quesadillas, and the USA, awarded for cheeseburgers and chocolate chip biscuits. Two dishes, the latter two, that might actually appear not particularly appealing when judging a country’s cuisine. But it must always be remembered that the ranking was launched by a star- studded broadcaster. __________________________________ BOX The ranking of the most popular cuisines in the world Italy ********** China ********* France ******** Spain ******* Japan ****** India ***** Greece **** Thailand *** Mexico ** USA * __________________________________ AT PAGE 26 CHEF’S FACES Alfio Nicolosi: chef ‘Sui generis’ HE DEFINES HIS KITCHEN IN A STATE OF FLUX, WHERE INGREDIENTS ARE THE BRIDGE BETWEEN PAST AND FUTURE. ALFIO NICOLOSI IS A CHEF WHO FOCUSES ON A CUISINE THAT LINGERS LONG IN THE SOUL OF THOSE WHO TRY IT By Maddalena Baldini Who would not like to be called ‘Sui generis’? Perhaps for a specific aptitude, a characteristic, an exclusive creativity that distinguishes and enchants... even better