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March/April 2023 X MAGAZINE coffee veil. Fusillone in lamb sauce with frish tak celebrates wheat and plays with the onomatopoeia of lamb meat sizzling in oil with resounding frish and some tak. The cazzomarro, a lamb innards roulade, transforms a squid resting on squid ink and Jerez vinegar sauce, seared artichoke and liquorice, into Calamarro . It goes well with the Three Part Pigeon . The mock apple stuffed with tartare, the breast cooked in pink, and the ravioli of its liver combine with apple, anchovies and spinach leaves for a partnership of textures. A better end could not come with a spoon-fed pig cheek in Lucano amaro sauce, pumpkin cream, cruschi peppers and pistachios. The last kiss is the greeting that lingers on the skin, a delicate lemon mousse with capers, almonds and pomegranate glaze eaten as you put your lips to the plate to the notes of Carmen Consoli in your earpiece. And we leave Vitantonio’s table with the Chariot of the Madonna della Bruna, hailed through the streets of Matera on the patronal feast of 2 July, and the ritual celebration of the strazzo that brings us coffee almond or hazelnut pralines with crusco peppers, dark chocolate with gold, white chocolate with coconut, orange, saffron, red fruit and beetroot gummy candies. It drinks well by the glass with wines that resonate harmoniously: D’Araprì Brut, Leuconoe (2021), Basilisco (2015) and the familiar bubbles of S.Pellegrino, which is not from Matera even though it travels a long way in the rocks before returning to the surface. __________________________________ AT PAGE 30 DID YOU KNOW? 2023 Food trends, a return to the past in the light of tradition and authenticity RETURNING TO MORE OR LESS ANCESTRAL TRADITIONS, SHARING, HYBRIDISATION AND METAVERSE: WHAT NEW THINGS SHOULD WE EXPECT AT THE TABLE IN THE NEXT 12 MONTHS? AS USUAL, THEFORK, IN COLLABORATION WITH NELLYRODI, HAS OUTLINED THE 7 TRENDS THAT WILL SHAPE OUR CULINARY EXPERIENCES IN 2023 __________________________________ Primitive traditions Ancient recipes and techniques are making a comeback with the aim of saving the know-how of our ancestors. Thus, primordial cooking is becoming trendy with a return of charcoal cooking even in restaurants. Braise in Paris, or Brat in London are reviving primordial fire cooking techniques to offer their diners a different experience based on the most primitive traditions. In Italy, too, restaurants that put charcoal at the centre are exploding, following in the footsteps of established successes with a long tradition, one for all Andreina in Loreto. __________________________________ __________________________________ The restaurant as a place for socialising After the great return of bistros, brasseries and city broderie where traditional and convivial dishes are honoured, inns and farmhouse restaurants are the new places for sharing, holidays, tasting and culture because they bring the element of warmth to the fore. Special initiatives are growing in the city and out of town that transform the restaurant experience into opportunities for socialising around the table as well as social dinners. In Milan, for example, there is Dry Aged, which in its three rooms articulates different options for experiencing the restaurant in company, from the shared table to the private room for parties and celebrations. __________________________________ The quest for self-sufficiency While Italy is witnessing a depopulation of the countryside, in the cities there is a search for a lifestyle more in touch with nature: the trend of neighbourhood living is leading to a growth in urban agriculture and local self-sufficiency. According to an analysis by Coldiretti and based on data from the ISTAT report on urban greenery 2021, in the last five years in Italy there has been an increase in urban gardens of 18.5%, exceeding 2.1 million square metres occupied; this implies greater agricultural knowledge even in the city and a search