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OCT. NOV. 2021 XI unwritten rule that sees school initiatives fatally confined only to the educational perimeter. In this case, however, the project is a candidate to open up to the market, bringing the two young students into the real world of the profession. “We decided to literally put our hands to work with the most traditional of Christmas sweets, panettone,” explains Logli. “And this, driven both by our own passion for leavened products and by the curiosity that has always led us to delve independently into this section of pastry making, even beyond our schooling”. A strong and decisive impulse, in short, that today seems ready to make a quantum leap, taking the form of a ‘greedy’ business. At first,” says Logli, “we imagined creating a simple educational paper. Then, however, at the suggestion of our teachers, we decided to propose the production and marketing of our panettone cakes outside the school boundaries. And the early signs are more than encouraging: “At the moment we have started contacts with the Momi pastry shop of Trento,” says Logli, “which has said it is willing to support our initiative. If all goes well, then, at Christmas time, our desserts could land under the trees of families in Trentino and beyond. To make the upcoming festivities sweeter, there could be the traditional version of panettone by Logli&Carollo, packaged with products strictly linked to the Trentino region, such as alpine butter or eggs from local farms. And that’s not all. “Always in the wake of the short supply chain,” says Logli, “we are also experimenting with other flavours, using, for example, lemons from Lake Garda”. But the creativity of the two young students goes even further. “We are even considering a chocolate and chilli variant. All that’s missing from the list of ingredients is a fair and well-deserved dose of luck. AT PAGE 36 IN THE PANTRY Put a PDO (or PGI) on the menu Using ingredients with a denomination of origin can be an attraction for consumers who are more attentive to the quality of the product and a way to increase the value of their dishes, even economically. by Elena Consonni It is well known that Italy has a very rich agricultural and food heritage, as well as that a good number of products are further enhanced by a protected denomination PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) or PGI (Protected Geographical Indication). Perhaps it is not so well known that using ingredients with a denomination (and above all communicating it) can become an element of differentiation and enhancement of one’s cuisine. What are we talking about? We’re talking about 315 food products, plus over 500 wines and about thirty spirits. “This sector,” explains Mauro Rosati, director of the Qualivita Foundation, the body that deals with the development and promotion of products with designations, “is worth about 17 billion euro in turnover and is also very important for exports: over 20% of the 50 billion euro generated by the export of agri- food products is protected by a designation. The sector has grown a lot in recent years: in 2003 there were 578 products, worth 5 billion euro. The first region for products with a denomination is Veneto, but they are widespread: there is no Italian province that does not have its own PDO or PGI. An example of how much a denomination enhances a product is the chocolate of Modica, after the recognition of the PGI it went from a limited production to significant business volumes”. The value acquired by a product upon recognition of the denomination accompanies it even when it is used as an ingredient in a dish. “A protected product”, explains Rosati, “belongs to a controlled and certified supply chain, in which the Consortium acts as guarantor. Including such a product on your menu means transferring these guarantees to the consumer. Denomination products ensure total traceability and also protect against the phenomenon of Italian Sounding”. There are also marketing and communication advantages. “The denomination,” he says, “is an appeal to the consumer. For example, if I write ‘Culatello di Zibello PGI’ on the menu, the consumer knows what I’m talking about; not necessarily if I write ‘culaccia’. Moreover, the Consortia, which organise the communication activities of the denominations, often also promote the restaurants that use the products”. On the other hand, generally choosing a PDO or PGI product over a similar one, perhaps from the same territory, can lead to an increase in costs: a sore point for restaurateurs. “It’s true,” comments Rosati, “but the denomination supply chains guarantee fair remuneration throughout the chain, right up to the farmer. For a restaurateur who wants to adopt a policy of sustainability, it’s important to pay attention to this aspect as well. Using PDO and PGI ingredients can also be a way to enhance the economic value of your menu. For example, just as an extra charge is made for adding truffles to certain dishes, the same could be done for a particular extra-virgin olive oil or a highly prized grating cheese. I mention these ingredients because they affect the quality of the menu as a whole, going into the majority of dishes. I believe that just as restaurateurs have learned to communicate and sell great wines with controlled appellations, they should do so for other producers who enter the menu.” Rosati cites two examples. One is Pomodoro del Piennolo PDO, which costs more than the average and thanks to a winning strategy of producers and the consortium of protection sees its value recognised. “If a pizzeria asks a couple of euros more for a pizza with this ingredient compared to a “normal” passata,” he says, “people choose it. This shows that if there is basic information for the consumer and