Qualitaly_114

DEC. JAN. 2020 IX a fruit from heated greenhouses, or if it comes from the other side of the earth. And most of the time, we don’t even ask ourselves the question. The important thing is to have what we want on our table. Everything and immediately, at any time of the year, perhaps ignoring the taste of that product that, if we ate it in its real season of maturation, would have a completely different flavour. What matters is the perfect combination of various environmental factors: earth, light, sun and water. An alchemy that springs from nature, that satisfies those who buy it, those who enjoy it and those who prepare it. “Seasonality has several advantages - says star chef Davide Oldani, ambassador of Italian cuisine in the world - One of them is the motivation of those who work in the kitchen where, changing the menu every three months, each time, they make different assessments of the products they prepare. And, every time, we make different reflections, like, who knows how this or that other fruit will be... if it blooms before or after... or the climate is changing, therefore, the seasonality, and so on. Another aspect, what gives me the greatest satisfaction, is that the customer comes to my restaurant knowing that he never finds the same thing. The climate uncertainty that has been affecting our planet for decades is creating hardship and confusion in public opinion and in some sectors, especially in the agricultural/food sector. The seasons no longer reflect the standards we all knew. From winter you can go directly into summer. Spring and autumn have almost completely disappeared. A climate that is increasingly tropical and offers us prolonged periods of drought in summer and rain in winter. A phenomenon that, in addition to disrupting and affecting the economy, and the world production, in particular the agricultural and industrial, lately, obliges countries, institutions and academics to respond promptly to the problem, and to push producers and consumers to change their habits. Francesco Sottile, of the executive committee of Slow Food Italy and professor of agriculture at the University of Palermo, says that “we must continue to strongly support the link that exists between traditional agronomic and agro- ecological techniques with respect for natural resources, considering the climate change that is much more terrible, where foreign varieties are used and where industrial agriculture is practiced, far from the traditional method.” For some decades now, science has been announcing that industrial models of agriculture and livestock farming are making a significant contribution to the emission of greenhouse gases. An alarm bell that pushes us to reflect and think about changing our lifestyle to avoid the irreparable. THE (GOOD) ACTIONS TO BE TAKEN To deal with the climate emergency, government action is not enough; above all, it is necessary for each of us to assume our responsibilities by changing, first and foremost, our daily habits. “We need to review the lifestyle of the modern consumer - stresses the professor from Palermo - and get closer once again to local products, those related to a biodiversity that is closely linked to sustainable production. Surely we must continue to strengthen the link that exists between traditional agronomic and agro-ecological techniques, always considering that climate change is much worse when using foreign varieties or industrial agricultural methods far removed from traditional ones. However, the unusual climatic seasonalities, such as those we have been experiencing in recent years, are not always negative for the agricultural economy. Some experts in the field are convinced that even in the current climate chaos there are benefits to be gained. The Sicilian university professor is one of them. “If we respected traditional cultivation techniques, the ordinary crop cycles that have always allowed them to adapt continuously, slowly but inexorably to climate change, even the crazy seasonality could offer excellent opportunities for everyone.” Other experts, however, are convinced that to better address the concept of seasonality, man should adapt to what the climate is at that particular time. “If winter begins a month later - says Oldani - there’s nothing wrong continuing to prepare dishes