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OCT. NOV. 2019 XIV support to the local economy, not only of this area but of all the other areas kissed by this gift of the undergrowth. A real profession is that of the mushroom gatherer who must inevitably put in place, in addition to passion and love for the product, also a firm respect for nature and a solid expertise in the field. “Porcino is distinguished by its intense perfume, the meatiness of its flesh and the different shades of the four types of Boletus, aestivalis, pinocola, aereus and edulis, from brown-red, brown- branch and brown-chestnut,” continues Dellapina. “To think that some people from Borgotaro, who emigrated to America between the end of the 1800s and the beginning of the 1900s, were able to make this delicacy known overseas. As with any spontaneous product, inevitably, you have to deal with the climate and weather conditions and know how to manage the scarcest years even if, in the case of the Consortium for the Protection, the guarantee on the table of private individuals and in the restaurant comes through a series of controls within the chain, from the forest to the final trader. Another fundamental aspect is that the certified product must be healthy, without foreign bodies and with alterations due to larvae of diptera and other insects on an area not exceeding 20% of the total. A VALUABLE PRODUCT Good rainfall, sunshine, moderate temperatures and not too strong winds, as mentioned, are essential to have abundance according to which, regardless of the quality, also the costs will fluctuate. “The quantity available during the harvesting period and the types: aereus and reticolatus (more frequent in the summer period), even if they have a stronger scent, cost less because they are more perishable; the other two autumn types, on the other hand, have greater resistance and therefore more value because they allow a wider processing and marketing margin. When entering the restaurant, porcini mushrooms defined as ‘young’, that is, with a more compact and white flesh in the lower part of the cap, have higher prices per kg and are perfect for cooking at the time, for salads or put in oil, unlike those at the end of maturation with a more greenish colour that are cut into slices and dried, used especially for sauces during the winter.” And if the dried mushrooms release an incredible scent, perceptible at a distance, it should be considered that, on average, from 1 kg of fresh mushrooms (which costs from 40 to 50 euros) you get about 100 g of dried mushrooms (from 20 to 40 euros per hectogram, again depending on the type and the market place). SAFETY ISSUE “Mushrooms, in general, are not part of the animal or vegetable world, this is an important clarification to make,” says Nerina Di Nunzio Founder at Food Confidential and director of IED Rome. “They have their own characteristics to be considered when used in cooking.” A point to which every chef should adhere scrupulously so that you can have the best of the product on the plate. Another basic element, to be put first in the precautions to be respected when talking about mushrooms, is to turn to a trusted dealer who has all the valid certifications on the edibility of the fungus itself, regardless of whether they are porcini, ovule, chanterelles or other types. This is also useful for the occasional gatherer and for those who do it as a hobby: in case of doubt you should contact the local health authorities to ensure that they are edible and not poisonous. “All chefs always rely on real expert selectors for the purchase of mushrooms,” continues the director of the IED, “able to give a perfect product in all respects. Even when it is not in season, they are bought frozen but always from loyal distributors.” It is right to emphasize that, cooking mushrooms at least at 80°c can prevent – with obvious exceptions related to edibility – health problems and intoxications but, it is also true that, even raw, offer the best of their taste, such as a salad of Caesar’s mushroom. That is why it is essential to have the guarantee of what you buy and what you put on the plate. CAREFULNESS IN THE KITCHEN Once harvested or bought, how do you clean your mushrooms? Should they be washed? Are there any parts to be removed? There are many questions to be asked for the preparation, especially in home kitchens. “All chefs know how to clean mushrooms,” says Nerina, “there are a lot of precautions... the mushroom is still a delicate and easily perishable product. You need a smooth blade knife to remove the soil, or a brush with soft bristles or a cotton cloth, always to be handled with light gestures. You should avoid putting them in water because the mushroom is very spongy, and damages the pulp. Only in rare cases, when the soil is difficult to remove, should they be rinsed quickly and then be immediately dried, always using a cotton cloth, patting them gently.” The goodness that can release a recipe prepared with mushrooms harvested and used within a few hours, conveys something unique, almost magical! To make this emotion live even after a while, the mushrooms can be blanched for a couple of minutes, dried, put in a special bag for food, frozen and used if necessary. LIGHT FOOD AND ECOSYSTEM Rich in fibre, protein and mineral salts, the fungus is a light product! They are composed of 90% water and have very little fat and very few calories even if one of the methods in which the mushrooms are cooked is to fry them, thus frustrating (but a little sin of gluttony is allowed) the rules of the diet. “It is nice to talk about mushrooms, even seeing them as a typical MAGAZINE