Qualitaly_112

AUG. SEP. 2019 VI MAGAZINE himself from his daily work to open his mind to new possibilities. THE TASTE, BEYOND SWEETNESS The healthy approach to food is, in short, an enduring trend that has also included the end of the meal, but it doesn’t have to be bad. “Sugar has great qualities such as preservability and structuring function in desserts,” says Vitale, “but if we remove a little sugar from the dessert we leave room for other elements, other sensations and help our senses to be sharper, more receptive to new stimuli. The dessert becomes a discovery, a source of new information, culture and inclusiveness. Some customers have changed their taste, either voluntarily or by force. With wholesome confectionery we are looking to the future.” ______________________________ BOX BARONETTO: THE DESSERT OF THE FUTURE? A TOMATO SALAD “The dessert of the future? It will sit alongside a sauce or in the sweetness of a tomato, it will no longer be relegated to the end of the meal, it will be deconstructed. Exalting the ingredients and also less taken for granted.” The desserts of Matteo Baronetto, Michelin- starred chef at the Restaurant of the Turin Exchange, also seem like works of art. They were created in the laboratory of the Farmacia, Del Cambio’s boutique confectionery, with care and dedication. But how important is the dessert in a restaurant? “A lot, it’s the final step of an experience and, like the beginning, must be amazing. Desserts which are too sweet, however, in my view are no longer contemporary. Even if the client still asks for it, but little by little it will stop. In the meantime, we are trying to find middle ground, we have reduced sugar in all desserts, even in the classics, from gianduiotto to bonet.” Haven’t you had enough of these intolerances? “A little, yes, but in the end a professional must put himself at the service of the customer. It is true that the demand for intolerances and vegetarian and vegan diets has increased, but we restaurateurs have to raise the bar.” ______________________________ BOX FIVE GUIDELINES FOR CONTEMPORARY CONFECTIONERY - Reduce calories also by reducing the weight of the portions: the dessert is the conclusion of multiple courses and weighs on the digestion and metabolism. - Attention to intolerances and ethical food choices without restriction, with the proposal of a single dessert that can satisfy everyone. - Inside and outside: reduction of the total amount of sugars and fats and search for different foods to be integrated with the traditional ones (vegetables, new cereals and pulses) - Sales opportunities: instead of a problem or obstacle to overcome, the restructuring of the dessert can be a springboard to attract new customers. - Communication is everything: simple to reassure people with intolerances, but attractive to everyone. Avoid the caricature of the traditional. Vitale explains: “I marry the “with” philosophy that gives products for intolerants their own personality. I’m not talking about “fake tiramisu”, but about “sweet cream with almonds and coffee” and profiteroles, cream puffs with rice flour and cocoa butter filled with coconut cream and covered with carob icing.” ______________________________ BOX FOOD DESIGN, IN CONFECTIONERY MAKES MORE AND MORE THE DIFFERENCE Geometric motifs and hand-painted botanicals, leaves, herbs and flowers to recall the naturalness and transparency of the ingredients, small works of art inspired by artists of all ages, wild or unusual colours, unusual textures: there is no doubt that the big moment that the sweet is experiencing also involves its photo- genesis and the filming on social media, first and foremost Instagram. Where there are some undisputed stars with millions of followers, such as Cedric Grolet, Amaury Guichon and Dina Rakasko with their creations that look like contemporary jewellery. Or our very own Iginio Massari and Gianluca Fusto. This has led professionals to focus on aesthetics, giving priority to the visual aspect. And by launching fashions that instantly become global: the rainbow, the geodetic (crystallised) or the “velvet or carpet” effect. A lot of attention to aesthetics, however, has led some confectioners to rebel complaining to the magazine Vice the reason: the customer asks to replicate recipes that are definitely more beautiful than tasty. Creating “unrealistic expectations” and encouraging professionals to copy each other. To summarise: the beautiful dessert must exist, one cannot do without it. But it must also be tasty. ______________________________