Qualitaly_111
JUN. JUL. 2019 XIV http://www.foodpairing.ninja/ https://school.lacucinaitaliana.en/ courses/food-pairing?refresh_c www.theforkmanager.com ______________________________ AT PAGE 48 IN THE KITCHEN At the table with Leonardo... between sandwiches and spaghetti A limitless Genius, from flying machines to an (alleged) recipe kept in its original version at the Hermitage. From these notes appears a Leonardo as a lover of simple tastes, able to enhance every ingredient. And chef Daniel Canzian studied the details, thereby creating an exclusive menu By Maddalena Baldini It is sufficient to speak the name of Leonardo da Vinci to open a quantity of studies, ideas, projects, inventions, art works, and engineering diagrams. The Genius of the Renaissance – during 2019 in Milan there are the celebrations of the 500 years since his death, representing the eager artist never satisfied with knowledge, of any subject... apparently even cooking. Among the various papers that have survived to this day there is one in which there is a considerable legacy to his trusted cook, a certain Battista de Villanis and, in the same way, between reality and legend, it is curious to discover that Leonardo, in his youth, also opened a tavern with Sandro Botticelli (another wonderful painter) who, always remaining in the culinary gossip, decorated the menu with the drawings of the dishes because it seems that the young Genius already had “habit” of writing to the contrary ... with the consequent and inevitable complaints of customers. From all these elements that, in a crescendo, reach the affirmed role of Grand Master of Banquets held by Leonardo himself at the Corte del Moro, it would seem impossible that his passion has not resulted, as happened for other things, in notes and drawings. And this is where the presumed Leonardo’s recipe book, preserved in the Romanoff Code, comes into play. Presumed because the Hermitage Museum, in which it is said to be secure, denies its existence, and presumed, because a certain Pasquale Pisapia tells of having copied by hand from the original manuscript. Its existence and attribution are very uncertain and dubious, but it’s always fascinating to give space to the Genius who, in addition to designing bridges, forts, flying machines, and paint the “eternal” faces such as the Mona Lisa those of the Last Supper, delighted between recipes, doses and preparations. THE EXPERIENCE OF THE CHEF “I decided to work and take inspiration from the great Leonardo because he was an absolute genius, able to give the maximum in every aspect, even in the kitchen.” Daniel Canzian talks about the restaurant of the same name in Milan, located a short distance from the Conca dell’Incoronata, the only seal in which you can see the project designed by Leonardo. “I started with a book in which there were recipes and notes, translated in the supposed Romanoff Code ( Culinary notes of Leonardo da Vinci , Voland; the sixth edition in 2012),” he continues, “here there are some curious things, such as the invention of napkins, or even spaghetti, through the creation of a machine capable of cutting the dough and then dipping it in boiling water, defined as ‘edible string’... a true revolution that would upset many aspects of history.” THE MENU, INSPIRED BY LEONARDO “According to Leonardo’s (hypothesized) notes, it amazes me how he focused on the simplicity and uniqueness of each individual ingredient, just like I do in my kitchen,” says Canzian, “it is inconceivable to read, for example, how one could enhance the taste of broccoli instead of throwing himself into a ‘horrible concoction of meat and bone’. This is what the Genius writes referring to the preparations for the banquets at the Moro court in Milan.” In the same way, Chef Canzian proposes broths such as citrus and almond soups, or eggs and a slice of meat with bread... just as Da Vinci had already described, thus embracing, in the latter case, the vision of the modern sandwich already in 1500. Not to forget the aforementioned spaghetti, for which Leonardo kept the valuable machine to cut the pasta even after his transfer in France at the court of Francis I. A fully-fledged reinterpretation of the tastes and ideas of the Renaissance Genius has found form, through the creativity of Daniel Canzian, in an exclusive project centred on a menu for events and activities, to be enjoyed throughout the period of Leonardo da Vinci’s celebrations, both in Italy and abroad. ______________________________ BOX LEONARDO’S SPIT ROAST Among the drawings of the Codex Atlanticus, kept in the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana in Milan, there is also a design to roast meat. At the base of a large hood there is a lively fire above which you can see a propeller that turns thanks to the hot air that rises to the top; the propeller is connected to some gears that make the spit move and turn. ______________________________ THE APHRODISIAC DRINK... BECOMES A COCKTAIL The only recipe (if you can call it that) written by Leonardo and recorded on a sheet of the Codex Atlanticus (sheet 482 recto - ex 177 recto-a), is a drink with roses for aphrodisiac purposes. The ingredients mentioned are rose extract, sugar, lemon juice and a little alcohol, the whole then filtered with a white cloth. To make it the “current” and very pleasant came down to Andrea Rella, the Bar manager of the Armani Bamboo Bar in Milan, mixing the cocktails, MAGAZINE
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