Qualitaly_109

FEB. MAR. 2019 XIV Romagna and even Sardinia – there are 7 recognised traditional varieties, some of which are growing because they are linked to the new demands of the market and to productivity. An ancient food, known, cultivated, distributed and consumed all over the world, such as to be considered the basis of many cultures. And if the consumption of pasta (and bread) for lunch or dinner shows a decrease, rice in Italy - despite the difficulties of the last 3 years in terms of costs, in relation to the farm- ers and the supply chain – in the final semester of 2018 leapt upward: cata- logues declare a positive trend for the different quality of rice, such as Balilla, Lido, Baldo, Sant’Andrea and Roma, and a recovery for Carnaroli and Arbo- rio. There is a good export driven by Germany, France, the United Kingdom and Turkey. RICE AGAINST CLIMATE “Rice is a tropical plant, it needs water, and in Italy, despite the uncer- tainty related to the drought of the last few years, continues without prob- lems – says Enrico Losi, Markets Area of the Ente Nazionale Risi – Even if the summers are hot, the water takes on a function as a protective barrier that ensures an improvement of the agronomic yield of the fields. Another detail should also be added: some of the most vulnerable varieties have been supplanted by similar varieties with higher yields.” This is why rice remains an indispensable source of livelihood in addition to being one of the protagonists of the long tradition of Italian cuisine, from North to South. “Let’s just say that the agronomic yields, on average, tend to rise and rice, in general, has never been prone to extreme changes, as may happen for other produce: if it has a very bad year, the loss is limited and is around a 10%, a minimum figure compared to others such as fruit or vegetables, or other grains like corn.” MARKETS AND PROTECTION The rice market is alive and bustling, the subject of important ‘achievements’ such as the one in January 2019 (re- quested by the Italian government in February of last year) that sees the restoration, granted by the European Commission, of the duties on the im- port of rice from two asian Countries, Myanmar and Cambodia, thus acti- vating a safeguard clause to protect the Italian and European farmers and industries for a period of three years. A fundamental issue, already feasible with the sowing for the year 2019. “From the million and a half tons of rough rice (paddy rice), 900 thousand tons of processed rice are obtained, with a loss of about 40% during the refinement phase - Losi points out - what can be defined as ‘waste’ is then directed to other activities such as in industry or animal husbandry.” The Italian production largely covers the national demand - from the 900 thousand tons, only 400 thousand end up on plates and in the kitchen – and the rest is exported. Instead, another 100 thousand tonnes are imported from other countries. “The biggest buyers of Italian rice are France, Germany and the United Kingdom – adds Losi, confirming the indicated estimates - in the latter case, while always keeping an eye on the question of its exit from the European Union and the consequent customs regimes, pointing out that the United Kingdom consumes much of what we call the round rice, especially for breakfast products. CONSUMPTION INCREASE Speaking of economic figures, howev- er, it is noted that the total revenue of farmers, in an average year, is approx- imately 450 million Euros, that of the industry is 1.1 billion. Important num- bers which see Italy not only among the best producers, but also among the best consumers, mainly ‘faithful’ to the wonderful culinary tradition that is part of many regions, such as those of the North where the classic risotto is a sym- bol of Italy overseas, without detracting from some areas of the South in which rice is the absolute protagonist of the table. “Lombardy and Piedmont are large consumers of rice, besides being the largest manufacturers – closes Losi – rice is also used in Sicily, for example one thinks of its arancini, or the regions of Campania and Puglia.” In spite of everything, in Italy the consumption is 6 kg per capita in a year; an amount that is still very far off that of pasta, although in the last six years, probably because of the influence of different factors such as the economic crisis, fusion trends, healthy eating and disorders associated with celiac disease, the consumption has increased by approximately 30%. THE RICHNESS OF RISOTTO From the processing to the plate, in different ways and manners, but Italy, despite the great diffusion of ethnic cuisine, is the home of risotto, from the most traditional to the most sophis- ticated and innovative, the important thing is that the basic ingredient, the rice, is good quality, as is the case of the variety Vialone Nano, widespread throughout the whole province of Verona. “In these region rice made its appearance about 500 years ago, – says the vice-president of the Consortium for Protection of Vialone Nano, in Isola della Scala (Vr), Gabriele Ferron – so much so that we were the first in Eu- rope to create a Consortium in 1979. The variety of Vialone takes a little lon- ger to cook and doesn’t give the same yield in all soils...”. A narrow area of production, which occupies about 7% of the total, but thanks to the strict disciplinary proce- dures of production and the willing- ness of the farmers, in 1996 Vialone Nano obtained the Igp certification. An important recognition that has resulted in revenue and visibility, thanks to a fair – now known at the international level, actually in Isola della Scala – that, using ‘dishes’ instead of money, records half a million servings of risotto. “It is important to promote not only rice, but also the culture and traditions that revolve around this important food – adds Ferron - not surprisingly we’re also committed to providing cooking classes to ensure that the cooks who come into direct contact with our prod- uct can work to their best”. Overall, in the province of Verona responsible for Vialone Nano and the Consortium for its protection, the rice cultivation area planted ranges between 1500 and 1800 hectares, spread over 24 municipalities with approximately 30 members. Data that is intertwined with the market trend that sees the alterna- tion of costs oriented around 100 euros for a quintal of paddy rice, then halved in size in less favourable years when competition from abroad takes over. “What I think is essential to give an even stronger boost to the consump- MAGAZINE