Qualitaly_109

FEB. MAR. 2019 XI but abundant, are a valid reason to return to it, to relaunch it, spreading it throughout the world. It’s calorific, hearty and suited mainly to the harsh climate of winter. Fiorenzo Perremuto, chef at the Mas restaurant of Chini in Trento, who amazes with his dishes that are a perfect mix between tradition and innovation, understands this well. The business meeting took place at the end of summer 2018. For the chef, this new experience with the manager of the farm, it was a revelation, or a revolution, because the effort was to find the right balance between the concept of gourmet and farmhouse food, which is the real soul of the Mas dei Chini. “I had just ended the season in Molveno and I was contacted by the Chini family. Their initial idea was to focus on the concept of the aperitif, but then we decided to revolutionise the menu of the restaurant. I liked the idea, my only fear was to become fossilized on the traditional cuisine of Trentino. Instead, after the restructuring of the location, we also revised the menu and staff, focusing on a new offering whilst maintaining a link with the cuisine of Trentino.” So you put together your team... The recruitment of staff is crucial, each person is a cog for the smooth functioning of a machine. The management choice was made on my precise instructions, thanks also to my personal experience. In addition to being a chef, I’m a consultant of Rational ovens, I’ve had various collaborations with Michelin-starred chefs, Walter Miori, Diego Rigotti, Alfredo Chiocchetti, thanks to everything I must say I have an open mind, very elastic, which allows me to give my best in the kitchen. You have a career that has always progressed: what is the key to success? The key to success? There is only one: never stop growing, both mentally and in the workplace. I always try to give 100 per cent, to provide a unique experience to each and every customer. Quantity does not mean quality, and each dish must encapsulate an emotion. How is the menu influenced by the fact of having a Sicilian father and a Venetian mother? Not only that, do you find that many of the ingredients of the north and south do not work well together? North and south seem to be at the Antipodes, but that’s not so true, we need to find a marriage between them. For example, just think of a lemon, so sour as a fruit, but combined with the sweetness of the char it goes together perfectly, or we think of a risotto with lemon and a dusting of porcini mushrooms; and then the north and south are perfect together. Behind the scenes there is the cuisine of Trentino which is also famous abroad... In recent years, also thanks to the wine and to our apples, our speck bacon and cheeses we are “expanding”, if before it was only a niche kitchen, now we are making it known all over the world. Depending on these ingredients, have you developed new working techniques in the kitchen? Cuisine is in constant evolution, using various techniques, low-temperature, vacuum. I also opt for slow cooking. The characteristics of an ingredient should be enhanced. Always. What is your signature dish? I have various. Such as a beef stew, which is a part of the shoulder cooked for ten hours: the meat is first roasted and soaked with Lagrain, the cartilage is dissolved and with the jelly obtained I reduce it all down and create cubes that can be used thereafter. I reduce the sauce to a kind of chocolate, very glossy, almost a new type of gravy, very filtered. I don’t use salt. In the dish there is a natural concentration of salts. I just add some speck powder. Then there is a second dish for which I use a freshwater fish from the lake, the char; I also make a very particular carbonara from the mountains. In restaurants there is now the “without” craze (gluten, meat, and spices). What do you think? It is a big challenge. Personally, I try to meet the needs of everyone, using different flours like that of rice or corn. My menu is composed of 4 proposals, even if it’s short I take a lot of care and I’m flexible to the needs of our customers. Which CIC products help you? Preserves and semi-finished products, but also vegetables and other CIC products I suggest the Cooprative’s products even when I am consulting externally, because I think they are very valid. I have been working with Morelli Catering for several years. I award a good score also to the flour, named “The four seasons”, which I use for all my leavening. I also find the peeled tomatoes are excellent. The range is very varied and the Gold is of excellent quality, in addition to the frozen range. Cooking haute cuisine, I prefer good quality ingredients. ______________________________ BOX THE STORY OF FIORENZO PERREMUTO The story of Fiorenzo Perremuto Born and raised in Trento, with a Sicilian father and Venetian mother, thanks to his mother (professional chef) he enrolled in the CFP of Rovereto, following in her footsteps. Despite his weak physique (according to his teacher), Perremuto completed his studies and beginning his