Qualitaly_109

FEB. MAR. 2019 VIII “ethnic cuisine” while we need to talk about what goes under the name of “world cuisine”, at least abroad, I think France, England or in the rest of Europe, where these names correspond to different phenomena.” Here therefore the specifications: “For ethnic cuisine it is intended the local and small establishments, usually open near the stations or in previously degraded multi-ethnic neighbourhoods, in redevelopment, where the phenomenon of ethnic is related to the sociology of migration: when people migrate, they try to maintain contacts with their country of origin, this also with the presence of premises “designed” for the migrants who find themselves outside of their surroundings, and instead want to keep in touch with their traditions, maybe with their food.” In these establishments, continues Kumalè: “The budget and the service are medium to low, the profile and the costs of content; the positive side is that they are faithful to tradition, you can find “original”, real food (exactly that which happened to the Italians in the United States at the beginning of the Twentieth century). They are restaurants with a short life cycle, often changing management, but it is a consolidated sector. Here there are no real breakthroughs: we talk about Indo-Pakistani kebab shops, who still retain the position.” While, on the contrary: “there are the restaurants and ‘cuisine du monde’,” continues Chef Kumalè, who has made travel his distinctive feature of his expertise - ed. – the so-called world food: places often opened by Italian companies with foreign partners, attracting a cosmopolitan audience. It is a company formed by professionals – perhaps from other sectors: notaries, lawyers – that evoke the atmosphere of the trip, and it is precisely on the concept of “cuisine travel” are driving major investments also from the point of view of design, the fittings are designed by architects, the emphasis of the cuisine is more on the atmosphere than on the gastronomic proposal: but there are difficulties finding high-profile chefs. Italy is still not an attractive destination, chefs still prefer to go to London, Paris, Berlin, Amsterdam and New York. For us ethnic food still represents an alternative of the low to medium price range, even if things are changing.” NEW TRENDS Japanese or Brazilian, Thai, Argentine. The quality is starting to be found, says Castellani talking about the market. “We’re helping to raise standards, a little in all of the restaurants in the world. I think of IYO Japanese restaurant in Milan that has got the Michelin star, but many of the new ventures can be found inside the guides, such as those of Espresso, many of these new locations are in Milan, but the phenomenon is extending to other cities. It is interesting to see what has happened to Chinese cuisine after the so-called saturation of the industry - too much supply and a “classic” model, which provided for Cantonese and the like (spring rolls), the formula All You Can Eat and, even, some of these establishments recycled themselves into pizzerias. Today, however, many have diversified the range and they are opening up to the cuisine in the south of China, Sichuan, the “real” Chinese cuisine. Or the gastronomy of Wenzhou, with its hundred-year eggs, the sea cucumber, intestine, and tripe. The classic Chinese is destined to disappear – says Chef Kumalè “They are opening up many ravioleries: places which put the kitchen in view to win the trust of the consumer, and adopt the ethnic products of the highest quality. Some of these places use certified farm meat, agro-food products cultivated in Italy; today more than 100 products from around the world are grown in Italy, with excellent results: cabbage, for example, or herbs. Locally produced ethnic products. I think of the industrial range with Japanese rice, grown in the Lomellina, or the couscous from Ferrara.” And in Italy? “Italians want quality and traceability of the supply chain: if, therefore, the “new” Chinese cuisine is opening restaurants, or sandwich shops like bao of Shanghai, also the Japanese range is not just sushi and sashimi, but also, and especially ramen restaurants – Ramen is very popular dish of noodles in broth - ed.” Here the key words are: differentiation, themed dishes and street food, which has more accessible costs and attracts a more and more young audience, the gastronomic analysis is all-round: “while the public in the ethnic Indian restaurant was an adult audience with an average age of 35-55 years old, today the more accessible cuisines (average price, € 10) are attracting many students and young people, with an average age of 25-35 years old. In general, while in Italian cuisine there is a return to tradition and quality, renouncing the techno-emotional in favour of a return to the roots, all the cross-over cuisines are making high turnover, in contrast to traditional catering. there is a desire for the innovative (16,000 new kitchen products are imported, source: report Expo Union Trade 2015, http:// www.expo2015.org/2018/06/07/expo- milan-2015-publishes-in-its-official report/).” In short, exploring their roots, with respect to tradition. OTHER BORDERS: THE SOCIAL FUNCTION OF CUISINE AND CULINARY TOURISM “In addition to my work – which includes travel, courses, reports – for some time I have been doing socially aware projects because food is also an opportunity for integration,” says Castellani, leaving for another trip. “I’m involved in a project for Lega Coop that is called Born to fry, a scheme that has significant experiences in Italy, especially in catering, which involves and employs, re-entering them into the world of food, people coming from other locations: they are refugees, or asylum seekers.” The world will become an opportunity to experience the fusion between different cultures. “Several studies – reports the Chef, MAGAZINE