Qualitaly_108

DEC. JAN. 2019 X a fixed presence on the Christmas tables of most of Italy and strictly served in broth. Taking inspiration from the most classic recipe, Scarello has designed the “Tortellino quasi in brodo” to be spoon-served and eaten in one bite, at the beginning of a meal. The broth is replaced by a sweet and sour gel made with water, vegetable gelatine, sugar, salt and elderberry vinegar that is placed on the bottom of the spoon, on which are placed three tortellini cooked in salted water and garnished with carrot slices. “Again – explains Scarello – the sweet and sour taste prepares the palate to welcome the other dishes. This dish also lends itself to buffets or banquets, where guests can be served standing, passing with a tray.” From the start of the meal to its ending, with the dessert, in which Alessandro Servida experimented. “I paired fresh stuffed pasta – explains the pastry chef – with some of my classic creams such as lime cheesecake, passion fruit cheesecake and a light chocolate cream”. A good dessert is essential to end the meal well because it is the last flavour you remember. “If you want to try to dare and propose a dessert based on fresh pasta you have to stimulate the curiosity of those who are eating it. You can play, for example, on the combination cold/hot, between the pasta and the cream that accompanies it.” However, there are no predetermined “rules” to follow. Regarding the thickness of the dough, for example, Servida does not think there is a preferable type, but it depends on the use you want to make of the dough. On the fillings, however, he gives away some suggestions. “Those types of fillings that can be well combined within the world of dessert are more indicated. I think of ingredients such as cottage cheese, dried fruit and citrus.” For combinations, let your imagination run wild and cook with total freedom. “We start from the assumption – he says – that using pasta you do not create a real dessert, it is more of a game, a provocation. So the only limit in combinations is with the imagination and sense of taste. For this, pasta can be cooked in all ways, it always depends on how the dessert has been thought out.. The same thing for cooking water, salted or not: here too depends on what is created. Personally, I like the idea of using salt water, so as to create contrasts between the sweet of creams and the savoury of pasta”. A “STREET” DISH Not only fried potatoes, hot dogs and olives all “Ascolana, pasta is also the protagonist of street food. “Street Food – says Fabio Lorenzoni, Coordinator of Team Chef De Gusto Surgital – is not only a trend but has been a way of sharing food for millennia. An example of this is the Bartolacci, in dialect “I Bartlaz”, of which in Romagna are dedicated festivals; in a pastry made with flour and water is enclosed squacquerone, lettuce and the roasted piadina romagnola. The tortellini Bolognesi, but also cappelletti Romagna stuffed with fried cheese that become a valid alternative also served on the premises as an aperitif or entrée. The passatelli Romagna, the ravioli of Piemontesi Plin, a stuffed and pastel pacchero, or even the cheese flakes and pears or apple and cinnamon lend themselves very well to this. There is no limit to the type of fillings: meat, vegetables or cheese are all definitely appropriate. In addition, it can be diversified with the accompaniment of special sauces or in the sweet version: the tagliolini can turn into a crisp nest of fresh pasta inside which insert sweet creams, fruit fresh... making a great dessert for walking. My suggestion is to use small pasta formats that are more easily manageable and adapted to the cooking methods most used for street food.” The latter are also very subjective and customizable, depending on the result you want to achieve. “You can adopt frying,” comments Lorenzoni. “In this case I suggest, if possible, parboil the pasta in boiling salted water for a few minutes: the final result will be more crumbly and fragrant. For convenience and speed of service it can be avoided using simply thawed pasta. The pasta is excellent also grilled and can also be used innovative techniques such as “vasobaking” that offers the possibility of previous preparation, excellent preservation at refrigeration temperatures (+ 2° / + 4°) and quick and fast microwave regeneration. The transparent glass jar, among other things, makes the preparation clearly visible inside and maintains its scents and aromas.” MAGAZINE